Climb Mt. Hood

Background Information

Mount Hood is Oregon’s high point and a day-long snow/ice alpine adventure. The peak and its routes are well documented at http://www.summitpost.org/mount-hood/150189.

The most common and achievable route is the Timberline Lodge Approach via the South Side/Hogsback route, http://www.summitpost.org/south-side-hogsback/155408. I may do this unguided or as part of a two-day program through Timberline Mountain Guides that is done May - July.

Peak season is May - June. Later in July through the early fall the crevasses and bergschrund open up and become obstacles to avoid. Rock and ice fall is a serious hazard in the later summer or during long periods of warm weather.

The most convenient place to stay is at the Timberline Lodge, http://www.timberlinelodge.com/. There are a variety of lodging options, including chalet rooms (bunk beds with shared bathrooms), private rooms, luxury condos, and the Silcox Hut (at 7,000’, minimum of 12 occupants Sunday - Thursday), see http://www.timberlinelodge.com/lodging/silcox-hut/. At the low end, you may sleep in your car or camp around the parking lot for an overnight stay only. We decided against the Silcox Hut and rooms were in short supply at Timberline Lodge. I got a hotel room at the Best Western in Government Camp.

Permits are required and the maximum group size is 12. There is no cost for the USFS permits. They are self-issued on the parking lot side of the WyEast Day Lodge at the Timberline resort. Weather information and free blue bags are also available here. It is open 24 hours a day, though restroom facilities are sometimes not available.

One should be very aware of weather predictions and be prepared for self-rescue. The universal signal to a helicopter regarding assistance is to put arms up in a "Y" shape for "Yes" or one arm up and one down for "No". There are a variety of sources of information for past, present, and future weather forecasts, including webcams, telemetry data winds aloft charts, and avalanche forecasts. Sources recommend watching for the formation of a summit cloud cap. If it starts growing or darkens one should consider retreating. If observed conditions are worse than the forecast, consider retreating. One should know the route and major landmarks. Have waypoints and compass bearings. Remember that the extreme cold can render some GPS units unusable at times. While there is cell phone signal in many places, again the cold may affect the cell phone's ability to function. Furthermore, one may have to leave the site of an accident to get signal and call for help.

Preparation

Practice roped traveling and ice axe skills, especially self-arrest. Make sure someone not on the trip knows where you are and your planned schedule. Have a designated turnaround time. Be prepared to execute an emergency bivy in case of bad weather. If you are below Crater Rock and are making an emergency retreat, do not follow the natural fall line. This will lead you to cliffs on the ZigZag Glacier. Follow magnetic south to the Palmer Ski Lift and you will be able to find help or use the ski lift as a guide to the Timberline Lodge.

Blue bags are required by social convention on the mountain and you are expected to pack them out. To avoid crowds, that can be 100+ on the weekends, mid-week climbs are recommended.

Route Information

The hike is 3.5 miles each way with just over 5,200' of elevation gain. It begins at the Timberline Lodge parking lot at 6,000' elevation (calibrate your altimeter here) and ends at the 11,239' summit. An alpine start is necessary to have optimal snow conditions during the hike. Most people leave between midnight and 2am. This enables one to get to the technical climbing portion by sunrise and limits the rock and ice hazards.

A good pace is 1,000' of elevation gain per hour. One should reach the top of the Palmer Ski Lift at 8,500' (2.5 miles from the start) in ~2.5 hours. It is possible to reserve a seat on one of the Snow Cats to ride the 2.5 miles to the top of the Palmer Snowfield (see http://www.timberlinelodge.com/ski-area/activities/climber-snowcat-trans..., cost is $500 for 12 seats and you have to fill the seats yourself). After Memorial Day through July 31 (or earlier depending on climbing conditions) – climber cat trips may be available only Thursday, Friday and Sunday mornings between midnight and 4am. Reservations must be made with a minimum 72 hour advance notice. I talked to the Snow Cat Service. They said they only go if the Timberline Mountain Guides are going. I called the Timberline Mountain Guides and they are currently planning 7/1-2 and 7/2-3 trips, so the Snow Cat should be available.

You have to book the Snow Cat at least 72 hours in advance. The guy said it just depends on how popular a given day is, but they have several days where no one besides the Timberline Mountain Guides use them. So, basically it sounds like we can make the call 3+'ish days in advance. I spoke Jez Velasco (503-272-3146) is and was told the Snow Cat rides are only available the days that Timberline Mountain Guides guide. That won't be the day we attempt the summit, so we'll hike or skin from the start.

At the top of the Palmer lift one will probably need to put-on crampons. Crevasse and cornice danger can be encountered on the far east side of the Palmer Snowfield between 8,500' - 10,000'. The next major landmark is the Hogsback, a ridgeline that traverses between two crater fumaroles for the final climb to the summit. The Hogsback is at 10,500'. One should reach this point in 4 - 4.5 hours. Rope teams should consider roping-up here. We will probably not rope-up. Most folks I've talked to do not, but do go in groups.

There are three primary routes from this point. One is to immediately go over/around the Crater Rock on the west side of a fumarole and angle up to the Old Chute, taking the Old Chute to the summit ridge for a short hike to the summit. A second is to traverse part of the Hogsback to the far side of the fumarole, traverse across to the Old Chute, up to the summit ridge, and over to the summit. The third is to fully traverse the Hogsback. At the end of the Hogsback one may need to go around the bergschrund to one side or the other and a bit to the south over to the Pearly Gates chutes. These are a bit more difficult than the Old Chute, but end up on the summit ridge for a short walk to the summit. All should consider descending down the Old Chute rather than the Pearly Gates. If one does choose to descend the Pearly Gates, one should be prepared with a snow picket or ice screws to create a belay/rappel anchor.

Guided Option

Timberline Mountain Guides offers a two-day summit program during the peak season. See http://timberlinemtguides.com/or-ca-cascades/mt-hood/summit-program/ for details or call 541-312-9242. Basically, it’s a day of basic skills and then the next day to the summit. You get a ride to the top of the Palmer Snowfield on the Snow Cat and a guide per three climbers for $555.

Gear

Clothing: Wool or poly base layer, midweight layer, insulated/down layer, and truly waterproof shell layer over everything. Waterproof single or double boots. Goggles, full-face balaclava, base layer gloves and mittens (+ spares), and a hat (+ spare).

Technical: Harness, helmet, belay device, crampons, ice axe, snow shovel, snow picket and/or ice screws, rope, pulleys, rope grabs, biners, and rescue cord.

Other: Water and food for hike duration + extra day, map, compass, altimeter, and headlamp (+ spare batteries).

Other (Recommended): Weatherproof matches, stove with wind protector and fuel, signalling device (whistle), personal bivy, sleeping pad (to get off snow), cell phone, GPS, SPOT or MLU (Mt. Hood specific Mountain Locator Unit that can be rented in shops near Mt. Hood), and ice tool.

Proposed Itinerary

Unguided:

Sunday, 5/24/15: Arrive in the Mt. Hood area.

Monday, 5/25/15: Practice glacier skills - self arrest, roped travel, glissading, etc.

Tuesday, 5/26/15: Alpine departure from trailhead at 2am.

Wednesday, 5/27/15: Backup summit day or ski or head for Mt. Adams and backpack in as far as we can get.

Thursday, 5/28/15: Whatever you want or second day to summit Mt. Adams and descend.

Friday, 5/29/15: Depart.

Accommodations

One option is to rent the Silcox Hut, http://www.timberlinelodge.com/lodging/silcox-hut/. The cost is $155 (use your own bedding) or $175 (use their bedding) per night per person. A minimum of 12 people is required and a maximum of 24 are allowed. It includes a host who cooks breakfast and dinner.

Another option is one of a variety of rooms, http://www.timberlinelodge.com/lodging/historic-lodge-rooms/. We’ll need to check on costs for these. I’m leaning towards the Chalet Room.

Government Camp, OR is 6.3 miles from the Timberline Lodge and Ski Area, about a 15 minute drive. Using Google, I found seven hotels in Government Camp itself.

Rhododendron, OR is 15.4 miles from the Timberline Lodge and Ski Area, about a 30 minute drive.

Searching kayak.com for the dates we plan to be there for single rooms for 2 people, I find a number of hotels in Rhododendron, Government Camp, and the Timberline Lodge itself. Prices ranged from $91 - $173 per night.