Questions? Contact
the 2012 Climb School Director:
Rick Light at (505) 412-3976, or
lamclimbingschool@gmail.com
This schedule is
a work in progress and may be updated continually - last updated on
2/28/2012
Important
Notes:
- While classroom time is nominally
2 hours, the room is booked for longer to allow for set-up and
take-down of tables and additional discussion time. Please plan to
arrive early to help set up and stay a few minutes afterwards to
help take down the chairs. The class will start promptly at 6:30pm,
please arrive with enough time to be ready to start at 6:30. You
may bring a snack and water to the class, but please do not bring
your dinner to eat during class.
- Classroom is the Main
Auditorium at the
Crossroads Bible Church, 97 East
Road, Los Alamos.
- Alternate
Classroom is
the Main Hall of the
Church of Christ, 2323 Diamond Drive, Los Alamos. (This
classroom will be used only on April 10th.)
- For the White Rock Canyon outdoor
sessions (Potrillo Cliffs, The Playground, Gallows Edge) we will
meet at the Smith's parking lot in White Rock at 8:40am, arrange
carpooling, and depart by 8:50am at the latest. For The Y
(not the YMCA!) we will meet at the Smith's parking lot in Los
Alamos (south end, nearest Trinity), same times.
- All classes, indoor and outside,
will begin on time. Please arrive early.
- Two textbooks will be used in this
course, Mountaineering Freedom of the Hills, and Rock
Climbing Anchors. The cost of the 2 books is included in the
course registration fee. Students are expected to read the chapters
referenced for each lecture prior to that class.
- The Climbing School is
composed of 6 sections, the first section is the basic school, the
other sections are specialty courses that are optional to
students of the school, but free to them if they choose to
attend them. Students
must however 'preregister' with the Climbing School Director.
The specialty courses are open to
non-2012-climbing-school-students (LAM members only) for a fee of
$40 each. Click
here to register and pay for for the specialty courses.
1. Introduction to Rock Climbing
(normal LAM climbing school)
2. Introduction to Class 3 Scrambling
3. Snow and Glacier Mountaineering Basics
4. Really Understanding Rock Climbing Anchors
5. Introduction to Rock Climbing Leading
6. Introduction to Canyoneering (offered as a specialty course and
trip combo)
All but section 1 are taught as separate
self-contained courses composed of an evening session followed by one or
two outdoor sessions on weekend days. Dates for the specialty course
sections are as follows:
- Introduction to Class 3
Scrambling March 20th & 24th (the
week before regular climbing school begins)
Instructor: Tom Claus
- Snow and Glacier Mountaineering
Basics May 10th & 12th
Instructors: Ash Campbell and Rick Light
- Really Understanding Rock
Climbing Anchors June 21st & 23 rd
Instructor: Chuck Calef
- Introduction to Rock Climbing
Leading July 19th & 21st & 28th
Instructor: Zack Baker
- Introduction to
Canyoneering August 9th & 11th
followed by a trip to Zion National Park in
September Instructors: Dan Creveling and
Rick Light
The Introduction to Rock
Climbing Schedule
March 27 |
Tuesday |
6:30-9:00pm |
Classroom |
April 3 |
Tuesday |
6:30-9:00pm |
Classroom |
April 5
|
Thursday |
6:00-9:00pm |
YMCA climbing wall |
April 7 |
Saturday |
9:00am-1:00pm |
Potrillo Cliffs |
April 10 |
Tuesday |
6:30-9:00pm |
Alternate Classroom |
April 14 |
Saturday |
9:00am-1:00pm |
The Playground |
April 17 |
Tuesday |
6:30-9:00pm |
Classroom |
April 21 |
Saturday |
9:00am-1:00pm |
The Y |
April 24 |
Tuesday |
6:30-9:00pm |
Classroom |
April 28 |
Saturday |
9:00am-1:00pm |
Gallows Edge |
May 1 |
Tuesday |
5:00pm-Dark |
Gallows Edge |
May 5 |
Saturday |
9:00am-Dark |
TBD |
Schedule in Detail
March 27, Tuesday, 6:30pm to
9:00pm, Classroom session #1, Auditorium, Crossroads Church
- Introduction (30 min)
Climbing Safely Instructor:
Rick Light
o Welcome
o Student introductions
o Dialog on individual goals, class goals, expectations
and what to expect
o Overview of required gear (harness, carabiner, and
belay device)
o Hand out textbooks
o Check out shoes/helmets
o Safety and climbing
- Lecture 1 (30 min) -
Types of climbing overview and how to safely hike to crags
Instructor: Zack Baker
- Brief
overview of top-roping, sport climbing, and lead climbing
-
Introduction to class 3 scrambling
-
Lecture 2 (60 min) - Knots I: Basic
and essential climbing knots - (Chapter 9, FotH)
Instructor: Jim Straight
- Hand out knot practice rope,
prussic cord, webbing
- The basic safety system, basic
rope handling
- The figure
eight knot, tying in
- Bowline and
figure eight on a bight
April 3, Tuesday, 6:30pm to 9:00pm, Classroom session #2, Auditorium,
Crossroads Church
- Distribute YMCA
waivers, collect YMCA waivers--no helmet waivers, students will wear
helmets.
- Lecture 3
(60 min) - Belaying and basics of working
with the rope - (Chapter 10, FotH)
Instructors: Sylvan Argo and Erica
Becker from the YMCA
- How belays are used in
climbing
- Belay techniques and devices
- Communication
- Lecture 4
(60 min) - Anchors - (Chapters 10 & 13,
FotH; Chapter 1, RCA)
Instructor: Dave Dogruel
- Nuts, camming devices, natural
anchors
- Redundancy, equalization,
non-extension
- Anchors for top-roping and
rappelling
April 5, Thursday, 6:00 to
9:30 PM,
Los Alamos YMCA
- Safety briefing
- Climbing communication and signals
- Intro to belaying, lowering,
top-rope techniques
- Practice top-roping
April 7, Saturday 9:00 to
1:00, Outdoor Session #1, Potrillo
Cliffs
- Safety briefing
- Setting up a top-rope and anchor
- Practice building anchors
- Belaying, lowering, top-rope
technique, communication review
- Intro to placing protection for
anchors, cleaning pro
- Rock climbing
April 10, Tuesday, 6:30pm to
9:00pm, Classroom session #3, Main Hall, Church of
Christ
- Lecture 5 (45 min) -
Knots II - (Chapter 10, FotH)
Instructor: Kei Davis
- More knot
tying--water knot, clove hitch, prussic, butterfly, muntner
hitch
- Lecture 6
(45 min) - Rock climbing technique -
(Chapter 12, FotH)
Instructor: Peter McLachlan
- Body position, using your
center, proper use of hands and feet
- Face climbing, crack climbing,
other climbing
- Techniques, style and ethics
- Lecture 7
(30 min) - Top Rope Lowering and Rappelling
- (Chapter 11, FotH)
Instructor: Rick Light
- Lowering for the belayer
- Lowering for the climber
- Rappel technique
- Lowering and rappelling
communication
- Tying two ropes together for
rappelling
April 14, Saturday 9:00-1:00,
Outdoor Session #2,
The Playground
- Safety briefing
- Setting up a rappel anchor
- Communication review
- Practice rappelling
- Rock climbing (if time permits)
April 17, Tuesday, 6:30pm to
9:00pm, Classroom session #4, Auditorium, Crossroads Church
- Lecture 8
(60 min) - Belaying the leader and seconding
- (Chapters 10 & 14, FotH)
Instructors: Ethan Coon and Christa
Brelsford
- Roles
- Communication
- Rope
management
- Catching
leader falls
- Cleaning
protection
- Gear racking
- Lecture 9
(55 min) - Sport and Trad Leading -
(Chapter 14 , FotH)
Instructors: Ethan Coon and Christa
Brelsford
- Description
- Mental aspect of leading
- Sport vs Trad anchors
- Cleaning sport anchors
- Lecture 10 (5 min) -
Catching leader falls -
Instructor: Rick Light
- Upcoming
catching leader falls practice
- Briefing on
the Ludwig device
April 21, Saturday 9:00 to
1:00, Outdoor Session #3,
The Y
- Safety briefing
- Ludwig practice exercise -
Catching simulated leader falls
- Practice setting rappel and top
rope anchors
- Rappelling practice
- Placing pro, pro anchors, cleaning
pro
- Leading demonstration (if time
permits)
- Rock climbing
April 24, Tuesday, 6:30pm to
9:00pm, Classroom session #5, Auditorium, Crossroads Church
- Lecture 11 (90-120
min) Course Summary and General Q & A Session -
Instructor: Rick Light
- Being prepared
- Thinking clearly
- Staying safe
- Lecture 12 (15
min) Upcoming specialty course overview -
Instructor: Rick Light
- Dates, structure, and content
of courses
- Lecture 13 (15
min) - Graduation Climb Briefing -
Instructor: Rick Light
- Overview of the graduation
climb
- Safety briefing
April 28, Saturday, 9:00 to
1:00, Outdoor Session #4, Gallows
Edge
- Safety briefing
- Sport climbing & clipping bolts
correctly
- Sport leading demonstration
- Falling demonstration
- Belaying a leader
- Seconding
- Cleaning sport anchors
- Top-roping
May 1, Tuesday, 5pm to dark,
Outdoor practice climbing,
Gallows Edge
May 5, Saturday, All day!
Graduation Climb, Location TBD
- Depart Los Alamos 7:30am
- Depart NNMC in Espanola 8:00am
- Arrive climbing area 9:00am-9:15am
- All day easy, fun, multi-pitch,
single-pitch, and top-rope climbing
- Food, drink, social time
afterwards!
- Dinner at Gabriels restaurant
8:30pm
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