Author:
Larry Earley.
Participants:
Larry Earley and Don Taylor.
Mountain
Project Route Guide: click
here.
Jurassic Park has been around for a
long time but recent bolting has made this area more popular. The
popular guide books have only a few climbs listed. We were there on
a perfect day and the first impression is simply breath taking
views. Lily Lake alone is worth the trip but with Long's Peak
hanging over you and a ridge full of granite up the short hike makes
it hard to beat. The hike took us 20 minutes and it was a little
loose but it was worth it. This is granite slab climbing like Tres
Piedras but better.
Don and I started on Coloradodity 5.6
bolted. This was simply great and a nice 5.8. Don did not want to
lead this one. Next we tried Stout Blue Vein 8+ which was better.
You need a 60m rope to get down from these climbs. They are 80 feet
to 90 feet long. Stout Blue was a solid 9+. I had to hang at the
crux to work it out. I managed to get to the anchor of the next
climb and then we toproped Critical Morass 10+. This climb is
awesome. The crux is quite interesting. A hot climber previously
fell 4 times on this crux. Don and I made the crux first time. We
were only toproping though. I would rate this one 10b. So we did not
agree on any of the ratings here but we loved these climbs. This is
on the rock Big Ass Slab.
Next a whole lot of climbers arrived.
We walked around and waited. We walked up to the top of the ridge to
the Fin. This very cool with great views. Best of all, the empty
climb is on the cover of the guide book. We looked at Edge of Time
5.9R. This one jumps out and says CLASSIC. MEGA CLASSIC. Then lots
of people want to jump on it. The guy waiting first has no belayer.
I wisely offer to belay him. Climbers show up fast and in big groups
in Colorado so don't waste a chance. It was a weekday too. This way
Don and I get to climb ahead of the others. There is a little reason
the climb is 9R. The second bolt is way up on purpose. This is old
school climbing. The original climb had 2 bolts and 2 pitons. Now it
has 3 bolts and one piton. If you miss the second clip you just
deck. The crux is between bolts 1 and 2. You have to pull the steep
slopers or deck. Don and I get to do the nice toprope in exchange
for belaying the guy who is alone. It is probably 10a for three
moves. That is what they call an old school CO 5.9.
If you are in Estes Park you must go
to Jurassic Park. It is a ten minute drive on HWY 7.
