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Old and New Rock Climbing in the Sandias, near Albuquerque, NM

August 15, 2009

Author: Larry Earley    Participants: Larry Earley and Don Taylor

Don and I went to the Sandias to try some moderate trad climbing.  Saturday was perfect weather but things were damp from a rain the day before.  We got an early start which caused some minor problems.  Our plan was to take the Spur Trail to the La Luz Trail and head down to Estrellita.  This is a nice area with several moderates. The rock was damp and a little slippery.  Our first climb was Estellita 5.8 which is called "the best 5.8 in the Sandias" in the Sandia Select climbing guide.  I lead this 100 foot climb and highly recommend it.  There was excellent protection and I sewed it up since I slipped a couple of times.  Don had on a jacket and said he was cold belaying.  Nice jams and the climb is sustained all the way but never desperate.  After Don reached the top we moved over to the anchors for Clean Sweep 10a.  This made a great top rope for us.  Clean Sweep has 4 bolts and two pitons for pro.  It is a very nice 10a face. Lots of slopers and not a jug in sight.  I did it twice since I really liked it.

The sun was drying out the place when one of New Mexico's top climbers arrived. Lance Hadfield is a well known 5.13 climber who owns Stone Age Climbing Gym in Albuquerque.  Lance and his partner Sarah were very friendly and gave us lots of climbing information.  They did Estrellita and Lance says its a great climb.  They told us about some new climbs in the Sandias.  We walked uphill to the Hole in the Wall area.  There are two new bolted faces and three more top rope anchors right off the La Luz Trail.  Mouth of a Sailor is 8+ and Sailor Slang is 5.8.  Both are very clean granite.  We took turns on them and they are great.  They were put up this summer by several people from Stone Age Gym.  They are sporty with 5 and 4 bolts respectively.  Its about 12 feet between bolts with all slopers and sidepulls (sloper sidepulls that is).  Lance put it well in that these are great 5.8 sport climbs for experienced 5.9-10a leaders.  Lance took his time through these slopers.  I felt good he said that since I took my time too.  Don lead both climbs and also agreed to the ratings and comments.

Lance gave us a heads up about a new area he is developing near Truth or Consequences.  Its a cave area.  He said it will have climbs in all grades.  Location not given.  Maybe next summer it will be ready.

Don and I went up to finish the day on Aces and Eights 8+.  It is near the Yucca Flower Tower.  It has a nice bolted anchor.  The climb is 150 feet long and is a nice corner.  Very fun climbing, great exposure and views.


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