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Pinnacle Peak Granite Trad and Sport Climbing

Phoenix, Arizona

December 31, 2006

Author: Larry Earley

Pinnacle Peak is a pretty good granite climbing area on the north side of Phoenix, Arizona. Lots of hiking folks all around but only a handful of climbers. There is a nice trail up to the top of the hill and then you see some nice trad and sport climbs. Most routes are 50 feet but some up to 100 feet long. Many routes are mixed bolts and trad. Many new bolts added to old routes. Many old R rated climbs are now safe. I had a special tour from expert local Manny Ranguel. Manny has climbed for almost 30 years in Arizona. Along the way Manny has done a lot of FAs and also bolted many routes. He is the man in Arizona. Manny remembers climbing Pinnacle when only two houses were in sight. Today we can see a half dozen golf courses. Manny has climbed Pinnacle over a hundred times. The granite is good and there are a lot of nice lines.

View of Pinnacle Peak from parking area.

We start on South Crack (5.3) which is a fun little route that gets you to the top. The approach pitch is 60 feet of 4th class so watch it in the chimney. South Crack has a new bolt and new anchors at top to rap down. Our goal is an easy day of toproping three great climbs. Click here for more information on Pinnacle Peak.

South Crack is the wide route on right. 28th Day is face up the left and middle.

We rap down one at a time and each toprope 28th Day (5.9R). It is a three star granite face. Definitely a then slab. It is about 80 feet with three bolts. If you can get to first bolt on lead you will live. It is 30 feet of solid 9 to bolt one. The last part at top is really 10a by Cochise standards. Excellent route.

Next we move our anchor to toprope the classic Birthday Party (5.7). This now has three bolts on the thin face down low. The top is an awesome overhanging hand crack that would take a #2 Camelot. This pitch is about 80 feet and was great. Last we did just to the right a route called Dried Oatmeal (10bR). Just left is Pecker Party (10b). These are excellent thin faces each with three bolts. Dried Oatmeal originally had two bolts and was R rated. Another three star route. This reminded me on face climbing Sheepshead at Cochise but shorter.

I was originally going to climb at Isolation Canyon with Manny but the snow was too deep up north. Manny is one of a few who are developing routes at Isolation Canyon. Manny promises Isolation is a great place to climb trad and sport. Click here for more information on Isolation Canyon.

Manny is a great host and likes to meet visiting climbers. He also has climbed many times in the Brazos. Most recently he climbed with Ed Romero and climbed Resolution Ridge. Give Manny a call when in Arizona. He is SONSO45 at rockclimbing.com.


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