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The "New New Place" is a 60 foot, southeast facing, basalt cliff with approximately 20 traditional routes and topropes. Many excellent and classic lines, mostly cracks, are found here. Many are best toproped. This is a good crag at which to escape the crowds at the Overlook or the Playground. Bolting is not permitted in this area. To get to the "New New Place," park at the cul-de-sac at the east end of Kimberly. Walk straight out, but veer left (east). The main climbing area is a short walk from the cul-de-sac. The descent is a down climb at the south end of the main climbing area. Click here for a street map. Thursday, May 15, The "Y" The "Y" is a 45 foot basalt canyon with about 35 traditional and toprope routes. The "Y" is a popular toproping area for locals. It is not on the canyon rim as are the other climbs on this page. Due to the narrow canyon, it's not climbable in the winter. There are routes on both sides of the canyon - the north side (which faces south) has most of them. Bolting is not permitted here! Click here for a guide.
The "Y" is just
east of the intersection of NM 502 and NM 4. The unobvious parking area is just past the
first guard rail on the south side of NM 502. Park along the road (beside the fence), and
walk between the guard rail and the fence to the cliff's edge. The descent is at the west end
of the cliffs.
Click here
for a street map.
Tuesday, May 20, The Big Enchilada The Big Enchilada is a 60 foot, southwest facing, basalt cliff with numerous traditional and toprope routes. Routes are somewhat chossy and many are infrequently climbed. The Big Enchilada also features 2 bolted sport routes. This cliff is in a good location and is fairly tall, but the rock is fairly broken. However, many good routes can be found, while avoiding the crowds. Many trad leaders practice here. Bolting is permitted here, but is discouraged, due to the lack of good sport climbing potential. Click here for a route guide. To get to the Big Enchilada from NM state road 4, turn southeast on Monterey South. Follow this for .7 miles until you come to Potrillo road. Turn right on Potrillo and continue for .8 miles until you come to Estante road. Take another right and follow the road back until you come to a pullout on the right side of the road (.3 miles), just past a fire hydrant (this hydrant is on the right side of the road as you approach, don't be fooled by an earlier hydrant on the left). Park here. Follow the obvious trail south until it splits, and follow the left branch. Follow this trail to its end (a cliff edge). You have arrived! The hike is about 0.75 miles. Top rope sets are available to the right and left of the trail end. Watch for loose rocks on the climbs; particularly near the top. The descent gully is slightly left of the trail end. As you come down the gully, two bolted climbs will be on your left, and the main Big Enchilada area is around the corner to the right. Click here for a street map. NOTE: Be very careful to keep adequate distance from the FIRE HYDRANT, mail boxes, driveways, and the edge of the road, when parking. You must keep your tires off the road when you park. If you don't obey these rules, you may get a ticket. The local property owners demand legal enforcement. We are developing a bad reputation with them, which could haunt us for years to come. Thursday, May 22, The Old New Place The "Old New Place" is a 60 foot, southeast facing, basalt cliff with approximately 20 traditional routes and topropes. Many excellent and classic lines, mostly cracks, are found here. Many are best toproped. This is a good crag at which to escape the crowds at the Overlook or the Playground. The descent is on an unobvious rock trail at the south end of the climbing area (at a low spot along the cliff edge). Bolting is not permitted here! Click here for a route guide.
To get to the "Old New Place" from NM state road 4, turn south on Rover
Blvd. After about 200 yards,
take a left on Meadow Lane. Park near 719 Meadow Lane, being careful not to block
mailboxes or driveways (several residents have complained in the past). Take
the public access trail between 719 and 721 Meadow Lane. The "Old
New Place" is almost straight out, but veer left (north) slightly. It is a very short
walk to the high spot on the cliff edge. The
descent is via an unobvious rock trail at the south end of the crag, at a low
spot along the cliff edge. Click here for a street map.
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