North American Classic Climbs
Stairway to Heaven
(Provo Canyon, Utah)
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North American Classic Climbs |
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Stairway to Heaven (Provo Canyon, Utah) |
Beta 
Images
Slide Show
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Description |
Climbers* |
Photo* |
Date |
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The falls seen from the road in about average conditions. Pitches 1 through 5 are well formed. |
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MA |
01/26/02 | ||
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Starting up pitch 1. |
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MA |
03/10/02 | ||
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Pitch 1. |
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MA |
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Pitch 2 seen drom the top of pitch 1. There are many possible variations. |
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MA |
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Pitch 2. |
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In the cave on pitch 2, visible above the climber in the previous image. |
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MA |
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The long sustained third pitch, seen from the top of pitch 2. The climber is at the belay spot. |
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Pitch 3, WI4+ |
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Inspecting "Prophet on a Stick", a mixed route leading up over the roof on pitch 4. The normal pitch 4 can be seen in profile to the right. |
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Pitch 4 in extremely fat conditions. The furthest right pillar is the standard line of ascent and is usually the only pillar. |
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Pitch 5 seen from the top of pitch 4. Most parties only do the first five pitches, in which case this is the crux at WI5. There are two mixed variations in the cave behind the pillar. |
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Leading the overhanging crux of pitch 5. |
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Pitch 6 in lean conditions. The route climbs the short chiney, which is protected by bolts. In good conditions the chimney is filled with ice and is relatively easy (WI4.) Without ice it is M5. The overhanging pitch 7 looms above. |
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Starting up pitch 6. |
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Clipping the third of five bolts on pitch 6. Above this point, progress is made via precarious squeeze chimney technique, which with ice gear is a memorable experience. |
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Pitch 7 rarely forms. When is does, it is a WI6 pillar. In lean conditions such as this, it can be climbed via an 8-bolt M7+ mixed route which weaves between ice patches up to the hanging dagger. |
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MA |
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Starting up pitch 7, about 10 feet up. |
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At the fourth bolt, preparing to mount the first ice smear. |
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Reaching for the ice dagger near the top of pitch 7. |
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A variation to pitch 5. This route (Contrivance, M8) starts from the left side of the cave behind the pillar and climbs up and left to a hanging curtain. There is a bolted M6 route on the right side of the pillar as well. |
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MA |
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Gaining the ice on pitch 5, Contrivance. |
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*Climbers & Photographers: Michael Anderson, Marc Springer
