North American Classic Climbs
Mount Moran
South Buttress Direct
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North American Classic Climbs |
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Mount Moran South Buttress Direct |
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Description |
Climbers* |
Photo* |
Date |
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By far the recommended approach to Mt. Moran's South side - a canoe ride across String Lake. |
GP |
SD |
8/96 | ||
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Mt. Moran from the SE - the South Buttress descends from the summit to the left foreground. The technical portion of the route ends at the horizontal section of ridge (visually just above the left snow patch). The rappel descent is in the first major gully to the right. |
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GC |
9/90 | ||
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The less desirable approach - hiking around String Lake. |
LC |
GC |
7/1/92 | ||
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On the hike around the lake, in Leigh Canyon. |
BM |
GC |
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The lower South Buttress in profile. |
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GC |
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Leading low on the route. |
GC |
LC |
7/2/92 | ||
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A ramp a bit higher. |
GC |
LC |
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Traversing out on the face, where it starts to get exposed. |
GC |
LC |
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Following a pitch on the monolithic face. |
LC |
GC |
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Exposed climbing. |
LC |
GC |
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The crux pitch that leads to the pendulum pitch - tough with a pack for balance reasons! |
GC |
LC |
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Beginning the pendulums. |
GC |
LC |
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Looking down from the first pendulum anchor. |
WH |
SA |
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Beginning the short aid section (or 5.12) at the end of the pendulums. |
GC |
LC |
7/2/92 | ||
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Following the pendulums. |
LC |
GC |
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The final pitch, a moderate but highly exposed hand traverse. |
GC |
LC |
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Looking for the rappel line (not here) - Leigh Canyon below. |
GC |
LC |
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Almost back to the ground. |
GC |
LC |
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The descent from the lower buttress. The rappel line is well to the left of Laughing Lion Falls. |
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GC |
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*Climbers & Photographers: Gary Clark, Lynn Clark, Steve Doorn, Gina Pasquale, Shane Anglin, Wayne Harney, MI: Michael Anderson, MA: Mark Anderson, Bobby Gomez, Janelle Jakulewicz, Bull Moose
