North American Classic Climbs

Moose's Tooth

Ham & Eggs Route

A more recent, and for many climbers, more appealing route than the West Ridge in this area of growing popularity and importance for serious alpinism. The route is steeper and more technical than the West Ridge, but may actually be safer. It is steep enough to slough off recent snows, and thus may be climbable while the West Ridge is suicidal due to avalanche and cornice hazard. The walls of the couloir provide rock belay anchors, and the remaining ridge to the summit is the relatively easier portion. Careful consideration should be made of temperatures and weather, though, because you will not want to be in the couloir during a major storm or in the heat of midday. A bivouac at the top of the couloir to wait for nightfall for the descent is typical. This route is probably the most straightforward way to the true summit of the Moose's Tooth for the climber well qualified on steep snow and ice.

Type:

Snow & Ice

Seriousness:

Location:

Denali Nat'l Park, Alaska, USA

References:

G43, W2

Rating:

Alpine Ice IV/V

Route Descriptions & Maps:

First Ascent:

J. Krakauer, T. Davies, N. Zinsser

Trip Reports:

Ferro, 05/02
Pollard, 04/02