North American Classic Climbs
Mount Moran
South Buttress Direct
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North American Classic Climbs |
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Mount Moran South Buttress Direct |
Beta 
Images-1
Images-2
Slide Show
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Description |
Climbers* |
Photo* |
Date |
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The photos on this page cover the upper part of the buttress. This is the 5.5 hand traverse near the start of the upper part. |
BG |
MI |
6/30/01 | ||
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On the slabs leading to the horizontal section of the ridge |
BG |
MI |
" | ||
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Traversing around a steep headwall on the ridge crest just below the horizontal section. |
JJ |
MI |
" | ||
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Leading the knife edge ridge of the horizontal section. |
MA |
MI |
" | ||
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Starting the traverse of the long horizontal section. |
BG, JJ |
MI |
" | ||
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Working up grassy/tree covered ledges just east of the ridge crest after the horizontal section. |
BG |
MI |
" | ||
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JJ in approximately the same spot as BG in the previous photo. The couloir in the background is visible from the end of the horizontal section. Reach it by descending a rubble filled gully, then ascend grassy ledges back toward the ridge crest. This detour avoids a 200' dead vertical headwall on the ridge crest. (It is not necessary to cross the snow.) |
JJ |
MI |
" | ||
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Leading a steeper section of the ridge. |
MA |
MI |
" | ||
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Following on the ridge crest. |
JJ |
MI |
" | ||
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Leading a short boulder problem about 60' East of the ridge crest. The CMC route ascends to the notch in the distance, up and to the left of the climber. |
MA |
MI |
" | ||
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On a slabby traverse midway up the ridge. |
MA, BG |
MI |
" | ||
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Looking down at the belay on the last pitch. |
JJ |
MI |
" | ||
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Following the last pitch. |
BG |
MI |
" | ||
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Looking down the last pitch, looking west. |
JJ |
MI |
" | ||
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Looking northeast to the summit cone. |
MA, BG |
MI |
" | ||
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On the hike down the CMC route. The glacier drains out of the dark cleft above the climber. |
BG |
MI |
" | ||
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The upper part of the South Buttress in profile. |
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GC |
08/22/04 |
*Climbers & Photographers: Gary Clark, Lynn Clark, Steve Doorn, Gina Pasquale, Shane Anglin, Wayne Harney, MI: Michael Anderson, MA: Mark Anderson, Bobby Gomez, Janelle Jakulewicz, Bull Moose
