North American Classic Climbs

Spearhead

Syke's Sickle

Description

Climbers*

Photo*

Date

d02_059

d02_059

Mills Lake, on the hike in from Glacier Gorge.

-

GC

08/16/02

d02_060

d02_060

The trail becomes less developed above Black Lake.

LC, RW

GC

"

d02_061

d02_061

Reaching the shelf at the head of the cirque. Spearhead is at the left, with the summit at the edge of the photo.

LC

GC

"

d02_063

d02_063

The bivouac area at the base of Spearhead, with the west side of Long's Peak in the background.

-

GC

"

d02_064

d02_064

The northwest flank of Spearhead. The descent comes down this face.

LC

GC

"

d02_066

d02_066

Camping on rock to preserve the meadows (Park regulations.)

RW

GC

"

d02_069

d02_069

The follower on pitch 1, a fun 5.7 flake.

LC

GC

08/17/02

d02_070

d02_070

The first belay spot.

RW, LC

GC

"

RW01

RW01

Leading pitch 2, by far the easiest of the climb.

GC

RW

"

d02_071

d02_071

Following pitch 2 which can end on this grassy ledge.

LC

GC

"

d02_072

d02_072

Leading out on pitch 3, another relatively easy pitch.

RW

GC

"

d02_073

d02_073

Following pitch 4, an excellent face pitch.

LC

GC

"

d02_075

d02_075

Leading pitch 5, which also starts rather unprotected, but gets better once a dihedral is reached. Leaders should be very comfortable with 5.7 for this climb.

RW

GC

"

d02_076

d02_076

Continuing pitch 5, headed for the Sickle.

RW

GC

"

d02_077

d02_077

Following pitch 6.

LC, RW

GC

"

d02_078

d02_078

Leading pitch 7, which finally reaches Syke's Sickle, a big arching dihedral that becomes a roof.

RW

GC

"

d02_079

d02_079

Following pitch 7 to the stance under the roof.

LC, RW

GC

"

RW02

RW02

Leading the excellent flake on the upper half of pitch 7. This pitch can be split if wished; it is quite long otherwise.

GC

LC

"

RW03

RW03

Into the maw of the beast - crux pitch 8 begins with a tricky (5.9+) fingertip lieback, which develops into a stem.

GC

RW

"

RW04

RW04

The crux section can be done many ways, but all are awkward. The object is to exit via the slot.

GC

RW

"

d02_081

d02_081

Following the classic lieback above the roof, pitch 8.

RW

GC

"

d02_082

d02_082

Leading the famous 5.7+R pitch, a tricky face climb where the crux comes before the bolt can be reached.

RW

GC

"

d02_083

d02_083

The summit, taken from the end of the technical climb. The scramble to the top is worth the effort.

LC

GC

"

d02_085

d02_085

The route marked on the face.

-

GC

"