North American Classic Climbs

Spearhead

Syke's Sickle

The first route on one of the finest walls in Rocky Mountain National Park. This route should be considered a superb exercise in 5.7 granite climbing, with an out-of-character roof near the top to keep the crowds down. The crux pitch is an unforgettable bomb-bay flaring off-width chimney that nobody would ever confuse with 5.10 on a sport wall. Almost every other pitch involves textbook (some would say stiff) 5.7 flakes and cracks, although there are a couple of exciting face pitches to make it even more interesting. There are some of the best layback pitches I've ever done on this route. To top it off, it is set in an alpine basin that must certainly be one of the most beautiful in Colorado.

Type:

Alpine Rock

Seriousness:

Location:

Rocky Mtn. Nat'l Park, Colorado, USA

References:

G1, I1, W7

Rating:

III, 5.10

Route Descriptions & Maps:

First Ascent:

First Free Ascent:

R. Sykes, D. Rearick, J. Wharton, D. Isles, 1958
Royal Robbins, 1964

Trip Reports:

Clark 8/02