North American Classic Climbs

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Peak 11,300'

Southwest Ridge

Beta Images-1 Images-2 Slide Show

At only 11,300 ft (3445m), this peak is dwarfed by the giants just to the west, and hasn't even acquired a proper name. Other peaks in the area include Mt. Huntington, Mt. Dickey, and the Moose's Tooth, so it is perhaps no surprise that it was overlooked for many years while routes were developed on those better-known peaks. However, guides in the area eventually noticed the Southwest Ridge, and discovered that it offered one of the best climbs in the entire range. Never severe, but with enough challenge to "get the attention" of even a very experienced alpinist, this route offers significant length and amazing scenery, while keeping the climber busy with complex route finding through granite towers and chimneys, and along narrow, exciting corniced snow and ice ridges. If you are competent at the grade, this fine route should be on your Alaska Range tick list.


Snow & Ice




Denali Nat'l Park, Alaska, USA



G43, I10, W2


Alaska Grade 3, 5.8, AI3


Route Descriptions & Maps:

USGS topographic map

First Ascent:

H. Allemann, N. Lotscher, May 1968


Trip Reports:

Fitzgerald, 4/04