North American Classic Climbs

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Mount Logan

East Ridge

Beta Images Slide Show

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Description

Climbers*

Photo*

Date

DH04

DH04

The entire East Ridge of Mt. Logan. Base camp at 7,200', East Summit 19,400' visible, Main Central Summit 19,540' hidden behind East Peak. 16,000' plateau visible at top of route. The team would spend 10 days here in a storm.

-

PB

early May, '95

DH06

DH06

Base camp 7,200'. Ultima Thule Outfitters Beaver dropping off climbers.

Alaska Team

DH

"

DH08

DH08

Base camp 7,200'. Start of the East ridge visible, Hubsew Peak in the distance.

"

PB

"

DH13

DH13

Approaching the start of the East Ridge. Snowshoe to the base, then plow up the face to the ridge. Beware avalanches.

PB, KB

DH

"

DH16

DH16

On the approach to the East Ridge proper. Looking down to base camp below.

HH, BH

DH

"

DH21

DH21

Double carrying on the face approaching the East Ridge proper ~8,000'. Beware avalanche conditions.

KB, PB, et al

DH

"

DH25

DH25

Looking back from the crest of the East Ridge ~9,000' below camp 1. Nice exposure.

HH, BH, JW, JT, JJ

DH

"

DH26

DH26

Looking up the crest of the East Ridge ~9,000' below camp 1. Mixed ground above, old fixed ropes scattered about, exposed but not very difficult 4th class scrambling.

PB

DH

"

DH34

DH34

Beginning the mixed section.

PB, et al

DH

"

DH37

DH37

Double carrying at 9,500'. Distant massif is Mts. Kennedy, Alverstone and Hubbard.

KB

DH

"

DH42

DH42

Camp 1 at 10,300'. Hubsew Peak behind in the clouds.

PB, BH, HH

DH

"

DH45

DH45

Knife-edge traverse above camp 1 at 11,300'. One of the most exposed sections of the route.

HH, BH

DH

"

DH51

DH51

Looking up on the knife-edged section, 11,300'

PB, KB, et al

DH

"

DH47

DH47

Descending to Camp 1 after a double carry at 12,000'. Entire East Ridge visible below. Base camp is on sunlit glacier left of ridge.

PB, KB

DH

"

DH60

DH60

Downclimbing at 12,800' after a double carry to Camp 2.

PB, BH

DH

"

DH61

DH61

Camp 2 at 13,300'. Heading out on a double carry to Camp 3.

PB, KB

DH

"

DH66

DH66

Climbing at 15,500' above Camp 3, on the way to High Camp. Just below the plateau at 16,000'. Hubsew Ridge descends below the climber, ending at Hubsew Peak. East Ridge is the next ridge out of the photo to the left.

PB

DH

"

DH69

DH69

Easy terrain on the 16,000' plateau, just below high camp. MacArthur Peak visible left of climbers in middle distance.

BH, HH

DH

"

DH74

DH74

Summit day sunrise from 16,000' high camp. A two day blizzard had just ended. The team had 1 calm day for the summit then 7 more days of arctic fury. MacArthur Peak pyramid visible right of sun.

-

DH

"

DH78

DH78

6am on the summit day at 16,500'. Furthest distant massif in center is Mts. Kennedy, Alverstone and Hubbard. Mt. Vancouver is closer and to the right. Pyramid immediately above climbers is Hubsew Pk. East Ridge descends left of Hubsew Peak.

HH, BH

DH

"

DH81

DH81

18,000' below the East Peak. Mt. Augusta is on far left of photo. Mt. St. Elias is on far right of photo. From here they traversed around Logan's East Peak to reach the Main Summit 3 hours later.

BH, KB, PB

DH

"

DH85

DH85

18,500' below the East Peak. Main summit visible in center of photo. East Peak is to the right. From here they traversed to the col between the Main Summit and the East Peak and up to the summit 2 hours later.

PB, KB

DH

"

DH90

DH90

Main Summit of Mt. Logan 19,540'. East Peak is distant peak, right of climbers only 100' lower. The route traversed around the East Peak on the right. High camp is ~4 miles away, behind the East Peak.

PB, BH, HH

DH

"

DH100

DH100

Four hours after returning from our summit climb a wicked 7-day storm began. They spent 4 of the days in the snow cave being built here.

KB, PB

DH

"

*Climbers & Photographers: David Hart, Harry Hunt, Bob Hempstead, Paul Barry, Kurt Bauer (Alaska team), Jeannie Wall, Jack Tackle, Joe Josephson (Montana team.)