North American Classic Climbs
Mount Logan
East Ridge
|
North American Classic Climbs |
| |
|
| |
Mount Logan East Ridge |
Beta 
Images
Slide Show
|
|
Description |
Climbers* |
Photo* |
Date |
|
The entire East Ridge of Mt. Logan. Base camp at 7,200', East Summit 19,400' visible, Main Central Summit 19,540' hidden behind East Peak. 16,000' plateau visible at top of route. The team would spend 10 days here in a storm. |
- |
PB |
early May, '95 | ||
|
Base camp 7,200'. Ultima Thule Outfitters Beaver dropping off climbers. |
Alaska Team |
DH |
" | ||
|
Base camp 7,200'. Start of the East ridge visible, Hubsew Peak in the distance. |
" |
PB |
" | ||
|
Approaching the start of the East Ridge. Snowshoe to the base, then plow up the face to the ridge. Beware avalanches. |
PB, KB |
DH |
" | ||
|
On the approach to the East Ridge proper. Looking down to base camp below. |
HH, BH |
DH |
" | ||
|
Double carrying on the face approaching the East Ridge proper ~8,000'. Beware avalanche conditions. |
KB, PB, et al |
DH |
" | ||
|
Looking back from the crest of the East Ridge ~9,000' below camp 1. Nice exposure. |
HH, BH, JW, JT, JJ |
DH |
" | ||
|
Looking up the crest of the East Ridge ~9,000' below camp 1. Mixed ground above, old fixed ropes scattered about, exposed but not very difficult 4th class scrambling. |
PB |
DH |
" | ||
|
Beginning the mixed section. |
PB, et al |
DH |
" | ||
|
Double carrying at 9,500'. Distant massif is Mts. Kennedy, Alverstone and Hubbard. |
KB |
DH |
" | ||
|
Camp 1 at 10,300'. Hubsew Peak behind in the clouds. |
PB, BH, HH |
DH |
" | ||
|
Knife-edge traverse above camp 1 at 11,300'. One of the most exposed sections of the route. |
HH, BH |
DH |
" | ||
|
Looking up on the knife-edged section, 11,300' |
PB, KB, et al |
DH |
" | ||
|
Descending to Camp 1 after a double carry at 12,000'. Entire East Ridge visible below. Base camp is on sunlit glacier left of ridge. |
PB, KB |
DH |
" | ||
|
Downclimbing at 12,800' after a double carry to Camp 2. |
PB, BH |
DH |
" | ||
|
Camp 2 at 13,300'. Heading out on a double carry to Camp 3. |
PB, KB |
DH |
" | ||
|
Climbing at 15,500' above Camp 3, on the way to High Camp. Just below the plateau at 16,000'. Hubsew Ridge descends below the climber, ending at Hubsew Peak. East Ridge is the next ridge out of the photo to the left. |
PB |
DH |
" | ||
|
Easy terrain on the 16,000' plateau, just below high camp. MacArthur Peak visible left of climbers in middle distance. |
BH, HH |
DH |
" | ||
|
Summit day sunrise from 16,000' high camp. A two day blizzard had just ended. The team had 1 calm day for the summit then 7 more days of arctic fury. MacArthur Peak pyramid visible right of sun. |
- |
DH |
" | ||
|
6am on the summit day at 16,500'. Furthest distant massif in center is Mts. Kennedy, Alverstone and Hubbard. Mt. Vancouver is closer and to the right. Pyramid immediately above climbers is Hubsew Pk. East Ridge descends left of Hubsew Peak. |
HH, BH |
DH |
" | ||
|
18,000' below the East Peak. Mt. Augusta is on far left of photo. Mt. St. Elias is on far right of photo. From here they traversed around Logan's East Peak to reach the Main Summit 3 hours later. |
BH, KB, PB |
DH |
" | ||
|
18,500' below the East Peak. Main summit visible in center of photo. East Peak is to the right. From here they traversed to the col between the Main Summit and the East Peak and up to the summit 2 hours later. |
PB, KB |
DH |
" | ||
|
Main Summit of Mt. Logan 19,540'. East Peak is distant peak, right of climbers only 100' lower. The route traversed around the East Peak on the right. High camp is ~4 miles away, behind the East Peak. |
PB, BH, HH |
DH |
" | ||
|
Four hours after returning from our summit climb a wicked 7-day storm began. They spent 4 of the days in the snow cave being built here. |
KB, PB |
DH |
" |
*Climbers & Photographers: David Hart, Harry Hunt, Bob Hempstead, Paul Barry, Kurt Bauer (Alaska team), Jeannie Wall, Jack Tackle, Joe Josephson (Montana team.)
