North American Classic Climbs

Mount Logan

East Ridge

As the second highest peak on the North American Continent, Mt. Logan attracts many climbers who want simply to bag the summit. The route of choice for that goal is usually the King Trench, a very long but non-technical route. However, the mountain would be more properly termed a range than a single mountain, so there are hundreds of possibilities for routes. Most of the major ridges and many of the minor ones have been climbed by now. Among these, the East Ridge stands out for quality and appearance. One look at this ridge convinced me of its eligibility for this collection. David Hart, an Anchorage-based climber with a resume that includes just about every major peak in his home state, calls this "One of the best routes I've ever done." Difficult without being extreme, this route is within the reach of climbers with considerable snow and ice experience under their belts, and will offer a much different experience than similar routes in the Alaskan Range to the west. The contrast is dramatic between crowded routes like the Cassin Ridge and this still remote adventure route.

The first ascent of this ridge was by a group of five Americans in 24 days, placing nine camps to reach the previously unvisited East Peak. The second ascent was one of the more dramatic in Canadian expeditionary climbing history. Organized and led by Hans Gmoser, the group of six Canadians drove and hitchhiked to meet at Kluane Lake, then discovered they had to walk to the mountain - some 135km! Requiring only six days to reach the summit from the base of the ridge, they then endured an amazing adventure getting back to civilization, traversing unknown glaciers and floating wild rivers where they sunk one of their rubber rafts, losing thousands of dollars in equipment. Gmoser went on to become one of the most prominent figures in Canadian alpinism.

Type:

Snow & Ice

Seriousness:

Location:

Kluane Nat'l Park, Yukon Territory, Canada

References:

I9

Rating:

A major high-altitude ridge with severe weather, high objective hazards, and difficult snow and ice climbing.

Route Descriptions & Maps:

From a camp near the base, climb a snow slope on the north side to intersect the ridge crest. Continue on it to the East summit, then traverse the plateau to the true summit.

First Ascent:

D. Collins, C. Oullette, K. Ross, G. Roberts, D. Monk, 1957

Trip Reports:

Hart, 5/98