North American Classic Climbs

Ancient Art (Fisher Towers)

Stolen Chimney Route

- A significant climbing history? Not really.
- Substantial length? No - you can do 4 or even 5 pitches, but still be only 250 ft off the ground.
- Excellent climbing? Well, it's good, but it's not hard to find better.
- A sought-after climb? Unquestionably.
- Striking appearance when viewed from afar? In spades - I venture you'll not forget this formation once you've seen it, and won't be satisfied until you've stood on the summit.

This is the bizarre desert rock feature that has appeared on posters, magazine covers, and guidebook covers over the years. It attracts climbers like bee hives do bears, even with a guidebook rating of 5.11- and a description that includes "climb the mud chimney." The rationale for including this climb in the NAC collection is the same one that Steve Roper gave for including the Lost Arrow Tip in the "50 Classics" collection - although it fails several of his own criteria, it's just "too wonderful and well-known to omit." The experience of the corkscrew summit pitch and the photo opportunities it provides are a climber's dream and a mother's nightmare. Go do it, but don't expect to be alone - this is rapidly becoming one of the most popular climbs in the Canyonlands. This is an appropriate climb for a beginner who can handle exposure, since the two crux sections can be dispensed with by pulling on closely spaced fixed protection.

Type:

Lowland Rock (crag)

Seriousness:

Location:

Near Moab, Utah, USA

References:

G7, G39

Rating:

II, 5.10+ or 5.8/A0

Route Descriptions & Maps:

First Ascent:

P. Sibley, W. Roos, 1969

Trip Reports:

Teissier 4/03
Schraad 4/01