North American Classic Climbs

Mount Alberta

Japanese Route

Alberta was one of the last major summits of the Rockies to be reached, by a large party of Japanese with Swiss guides. This route remains a big adventure for the modern climber, with an arduous approach, challenging rock climbing on the notoriously unstable Rockies shale, and a long, usually corniced ridge at the end. The most common itinerary includes a day to approach the hut, a day's approach to a bivouac below the technical climbing, then a long day to bag the summit. Rarely climbed compared to most climbs in this collection, but well worth the effort. Be sure to read the account in Roper and Steck for an appreciation for the historical significance of this climb. After a wet winter, this route can be very difficult, and in some seasons is not climbed at all. Dry conditions render it much less serious.

Type:

Alpine Mixed

Seriousness:

Location:

Jasper Nat'l Park, Alberta, Canada

References:

G15, G42, I1, I2, I9, W16

Rating:

IV, 5.6, mixed

Route Descriptions & Maps:

In photos

First Ascent:

H. Fuhrer, H. Kohler, J. Weber, U. Maki, S. Hashimoto, M. Hatano, T. Hayakawa, Y. Mita, N. Okabe, July 21-22, 1925.

Trip Reports:

Bindner 8/98