North American Classic Climbs

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Whitney-Gilman Route

(Cannon Mtn.)

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Description

Climbers*

Photo*

Date

d02_233

d02_233

Cannon Mtn. from interstate highway 93 to the south. The Whitney-Gilman ridge is marked.

-

GC

9/26/02

MM01

MM01

The ridge from the north (Moby Grape route.)

-

MM

?

d02_247

d02_247

Signing in at the trail head. Useful not only in case of an accident, but to see who might be on the route in front of you.

GC

LC

9/26/02

d02_235

d02_235

The approach begins on this paved trail.

LC

GC

"

d02_236

d02_236

Approaching on a talus slope.

LC

GC

"

31D15

31D15

Leading the off-width crack that makes the best first pitch.

GC

LC

"

d02_237

d02_237

Looking down to the belayer from the first pitch.

LC

GC

"

d02_238

d02_238

The belay for pitch 2 is on a good ledge. If you want to avoid the lowest pitch, you can come up the gash to the left of the belayer.

LC

GC

"

d02_240

d02_240

On easy ground, looking down to the highway through Franconia Notch, and the talus slope used for the approach.

LC

GC

"

MM02

MM02

Looking up the ridge from pitch 3.

-

MM

?

31D16

31D16

Leading the V-shaped dihedral of pitch 3, a nice pitch liberally sprinkled with fixed pitons.

GC

LC

"

31D18

31D18

Leading the clean cracks of pitch 4, right off the ledge. This is the spot where a climber once got his knee jammed so badly that his partner had to retreat and bring axle grease to free him.

GC

LC

"

d02_241

d02_241

The lower part of pitch 4, an outstanding pitch right on the edge of the ridge.

LC

GC

"

d02_239

d02_239

A "pink tricam graveyard" on pitch 4. Three #1 tricams were abandoned here, and are in various states of decay.

-

GC

"

d02_242

d02_242

Higher on pitch 4.

DH

GC

"

d02_243

d02_243

Arriving at the belay, pitch 4.

DH

GC

"

d02_244

d02_244

The short easy 5th-class section that starts pitch 5.

ML, DH, LC

GC

"

31D19

31D19

Looking up the final pitch at interesting atmospherics. The leader (barely visible) is at the crux roof.

GC

LC

"

d02_245

d02_245

The route ends at some boulders on a shelf. Looking north toward Franconia Notch.

LC

GC

"

d02_246

d02_246

The descent takes a steep but quite reasonable climbers' trail down through the forest to the paved trail. Definitely preferable to descending the talus slope you came up.

DH

GC

"

*Climbers & Photographers: Gary Clark, Lynn Clark, David Howe, Michael Lehner