North American Classic Climbs

Tahquitz Rock

Hoodenett (Whodunit)

Granite climbing at its most classic - cracks, friction, chimneys, and dihedrals on some of the best rock to be found anywhere. Tahquitz offers the best traditional crag climbing in southern California. A good case could be made that this was the cradle of American rock climbing. Routes like 'Hoodenett' and 'The Open Book' are where the legends of the Golden Age invented and refined the craft of rock climbing as we practice it today. Although the American rock climbing 'decimal' rating system is often attributed to Yosemite, it was actually developed at Tahquitz by Royal Robbins, Chuck Wilts, and Don Wilson for Wilt's 1956 guide book to the area. Hoodenett is just one of a number of excellent climbs at Tahquitz. It is a natural choice for this collection because it takes an elegant direct line up the longest part of the rock.

NB: The name of this climb appears as 'Whodunit' in the current guide books. The original name is used here.

Type:

Lowland Rock (crag)

Seriousness:

Location:

Near Idyllwild, San Bernadino Mountains, California, USA

References:

G25

Rating:

II+, 5.9

Route Descriptions & Maps:

None

First Ascent:

R. Robbins, J. Fitschen, 1957

Trip Reports:

Gale 8/96
Clark 4/99