North American Classic Climbs

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South Howser Tower

West Buttress (Chouinard/Beckey) One of the top 25 routes in this collection!

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This route up the long West Buttress of one of the most spectacular granite spires on the continent has been called "one the finest free climbs in Canada." Characterized by long dihedrals with perfect hand jams, it offers a fine adventure for the experienced party. The alpine element keeps this from being the routine rock climb suggested by its rating. This is a serious route that is coveted by many but completed by relatively few. Expect to cooperate with others on the route on a good weather day.


Alpine Rock (with substantial glacier travel on approach & descent)




Bugaboo Prov. Park, British Columbia, Canada



G12, I1, I6, I9


V, 5.10-


Route Descriptions & Maps:

Route diagram

First Ascent:

F. Beckey, Y. Chouinard, August 8-9, 1961


Trip Reports:

Fee 7/95
Clark 9/98