North American Classic Climbs

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Prince of Darkness

(Black Velvet Wall)

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Description

Climbers*

Photo*

Date

GD01

GD01

Black Velvet Canyon at sunrise.

-

GD

10/01

GD02

GD02

The route marked (roughly.) Climbers on Prince and on Dream of Wild Turkeys to the right.

unknown

GD

10/01

30N11

30N11

Black Velvet Wall, climbers on the first three pitches of Prince of Darkness.

unknown

GC

10/01

28C15

28C15

Starting up the trail toward Black Velvet Canyon from the parking area.

MJ, GC

LC

4/01

28C16

28C16

Most of the approach is in a rocky arroyo, but this bit of 3rd class comes at the end when an impasse is reached in the arroyo.

LC, MJ, TC

GC

4/01

29T04

29T04

A climber beginning pitch 1, an easy warmup.

unknown

GC

4/01

28C19

28C19

Leading pitch 2, the first serious pitch.

GC

LC

10/01

30N12

30N12

Leading pitch 2, from the west.

GC

LC

4/00

GD03

GD03

Following pitch 2.

JM

GD

10/01

28D02

28D02

Nearing the anchor, pitch 2.

LC

GC

4/00

28D03

28D03

Leading pitch 3.

GC

LC

4/00

28D04

28D04

Following pitch 3.

LC

GC

4/00

28D05

28D05

Looking across at climbers on "Dream of Wild Turkeys" from pitch 4 of Prince.

unknown

GC

4/00

28D06

28D06

Following pitch 4 - looks pretty much like pitch 2 or 3!

LC

GC

4/00

28D07

28D07

The hanging belay stance at 4, showing the modern bolts/rappel anchor. This is typical of all stances.

LC

GC

4/00

28D10

28D10

Leading pitch 4, from above.

MJ

LC

4/00

28D11

28D11

Following pitch 5.

LC

GC

4/00

28D13

28D13

Finishing the climb - photo from the top of 6.

LC

GC

4/00

28D14

28D14

Beginning the second rappel. The crux of the climb is the smooth slabby section just above the anchor.

MJ

GC

4/00

28D15

28D15

Looking across the wall to the East from an adjacent route. The upper climber is following "Prince of Darkness"; the lower two are on "Dream of Wild Turkeys"

unknown

GC

4/00

*Climbers & Photographers: Gary Clark, Lynn Clark, Mark Jonas, Todd Chavez, Jennifer Mariani, Guillaume Dargaud