North American Classic Climbs

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Pigeon Spire

West Ridge

Beta Images Slide Show

Almost anyone who spends any time in the Bugaboos will find themselves attracted to this climb. It is one of the least technically challenging climbs in the collection (in dry conditions), but has some of the best rock architecture and most fun climbing, with soaring slabs to sharp summits connected by knife edged ridges. Finally, it ends with a stimulating slab pitch with plenty of exposure. Located at the approximate center of the range, the summit affords views of all the other spires. A must-do whether you are beginner or expert.


Alpine Rock (with substantial glacier travel on approach & descent)




Bugaboo Prov. Park, British Columbia, Canada



G12, I2, I6, I9


II, 5.4


Route Descriptions & Maps:


First Ascent:

P. Kaufman (guide), E. Cromwell (client), summer, 1930


Trip Reports:

Clark 8/01