North American Classic Climbs

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Moonlight Buttress

Lowe/Weiss Route

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Description

Climbers*

Photo*

Date

MJ11

MJ11

Moonlight Buttress from across the canyon.

-

MJ

5/78

25I13

25I13

The lower third of the buttress. The route can be traced by connecting the climbers. Note a party rappelling from the top of 3, and fixing a rope.

unknown

GC

4/25/98

25I14

25I14

The middle section of the buttress. There are climbers at the top of pitches 3, 4, and 6.

unknown

GC

"

25I15

25I15

The top section of the buttress.

unknown

GC

"

26D18

26D18

Crossing the Virgin River (note this is late in year - it is a whole different story in the spring!)

MJ

GC

10/14/98

26D20

26D20

Leading the first pitch. About 2/3 of the way up, you traverse right into another crack.

GC

MJ

"

26E01

26E01

Starting to lead the roof on pitch 2.

MJ

GC

"

26E03

26E03

Resorting to a few points of aid to pull the roof on pitch 2.

MJ

GC

"

26E04

26E04

Leading the bolt ladder - pitch 3.

GC

MJ

26E05

26E05

Cleaning pitch 3. The end of the bolt ladder is just above the climber - free climbing from the ledges to the belay follows.

MJ

GC

"

26E06

26E06

Arriving at the biggest ledge on the climb, at the top of 3.

MJ

GC

"

26E07

26E07

Waking up on the portaledge, top of pitch 3.

unknown

GC

10/15/98

26E09

26E09

Starting the lead of the first long aid pitch - #4.

MJ

GC

"

26E10

26E10

Well up pitch 4.

MJ

GC

"

26E11

26E11

Cleaning pitch 4.

GC

MJ

"

26E12

26E12

Cleaning pitch 5, which continues up the big dihedral. It can be combined with 4 if you have a 60m rope and lots of hardware.

MJ

GC

"

26E14

26E14

Leading pitch 6, the aid crux.

MJ

GC

"

26E16

26E16

At the crux of pitch 6, the awkward transition over a roof into the crack/chimney at left.

MJ

GC

"

26E17

26E17

Cleaning 6 - these are the only other ledges on the route (and they are small.)

GC

MJ

"

26E18

26E18

Leading pitch 7.

GC

MJ

"

26E20

26E20

Cleaning pitch 7 (the section in the photo is easy free climbing.)

MJ

GC

"

26F01

26F01

Starting out on pitch 8 (not much route-finding confusion here!)

MJ

GC

"

26F03

26F03

Cleaning pitch 9, perhaps the best pitch on the route.

MJ

GC

"

26F05

26F05

Unracking the shoes to free climb the last pitch.

MJ

GC

"

26F06

26F06

Looking across canyon to the Great White Throne from the belay at 9.

-

GC

"

26F07

26F07

Arriving at the top.

GC

LC

"

*Climbers & Photographers: Gary Clark, Lynn Clark, Mark Jonas