Moonlight Buttress, Lowe/Weiss Route
By: Gary Clark | Climbers: Gary Clark, Mark Jonas|Trip Dates: October 14-15, 1998
Photo: Mark Jonas
® The author(s) and naclassics.com | 
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Moonlight Buttress, Lowe/Weiss Route By: Gary Clark | Climbers: Gary Clark, Mark Jonas|Trip Dates: October 14-15, 1998 |
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Photo: Mark Jonas |
® The author(s) and naclassics.com | |
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This was my second shot at this route, which came so highly recommended by so many climbers that I chose it for the "Top 25" in the North American Classics collectionbefore I'd even seen it. Mark had attempted it back in the days before Zion was "discovered" by climbers, but was humbled by a serious leader fall on the second pitch when his Hexcentrics pulled. He was 17 years old at the time. We thought it might go a little better with 22 more years of experience under his belt and the technology that had been brought to bear in the meantime. Oct 13: We arrive in the Park late in the afternoon, having driven up from Vegas immediately after climbing Epinephrine. We drive up the Valley to the base of the route almost scared to look at it for fear of seeing a repeat of my Spring trip experience - there had been 13 people on the route when I arrived, and I did a U-turn to head straight back to Red Rocks! Luck was with us this time: there was noone on the route! We retired to the campground, and the next day prepared a light rack appropriate for the first three pitches. The plan, which was only practical with no parties closely above, was to climb the mostly free pitches 1-3, then rappel to the base leaving fixed ropes. The next day we'd jug the ropes, then complete the climb. No hauling, no portaledges, just fun climbing. Oct 14: Pitch 1: I lead this pitch, which was surprisingly fun and quality. All free, a few moves of 5.9, mostly 5.8. Pitch 2: Mark works on the overhang which spit him out 22 years ago; it hasn't gotten any easier, but the pro works better, and he finally pulls it with the help of a couple of mechanical handholds. I follow, and marvel at the quality of the pitch - wildly exposed laybacks and finger jams up a monolithic wall. I would not have led this free, but a top rope changes one's perspective dramatically. Pitch 3: a diagonalling bolt ladder allows me to get back in the swing of aid climbing, of which I've done little in recent years. Toward the top, the quality of bolts begins to deteriorate, and finally I find two missing bolts in a row. In a stroke of rare fortune we had mentioned to the owner of "Desert Rock Sports" in Las Vegas a few days earlier that we were planning to do Moonlight, and he recommended bringing a clip stick. Some plastic conduit and duct tape from Home Depot formed the stickI now had hanging from my harness. Wit it, I could just reach the next bolt from my top steps. The bolt I had to stand on could be pulled in and out with the fingers: however, body weight seemed to cam it in its hole. Even with the clip stick, this was fairly exciting. Some awkward and reluctant moves out of the etriers onto easy but grotesquely exposed free climbing followed to attain the big ledges atop pitch 3. This is where many folks bivy. The ledges contain some big boulders, though, and don't allow lying down without a portaledge. One of the boulders is chained to the main wall to keep it from teetering too much! We fix a 50m line here and rappel to a good station directly below on the face at about 45m. A second 60m line gets us all the way to the dirt at the base. (There are some intermediate sling stations for people with shorter ropes). After tying the ropes down securely, we trot back to the car and dinner in a fine restaurant just below the campground. This climbing stuff isn't so bad, after all! The only fly in the ointment was seeing another party arrive to begin the route as we were finishing the final pitch. Since they had a haul bag, the most likely scenario had them bivouacing at the top of pitch 3, which meant we would arrive to negotiate who went first the next morning. We vow an early start. Oct 15: Cross river with headlamps. Hike approach trail in the dark. Jumar in the dark. Remember what a 60m Jumar feels like with a pack on. Wish I were 20 years younger. By the second rope, the light is gathering, and I struggle slowly upward, knowing that I'm keeping Mark waiting at the top. As I arrive, my hopes are realized - Mark's arrival had awakened the other party (soon to be known as Greg and Neal from Salt Lake), but they are in no hurry to get out of the bags, and apologe if they might be inconveniencing us by even being there! Really nice chaps, the kind you like to share a climb with, and I chat continuously with them as Mark crawls up the long 4th pitch. It's been a while for him, too, and the pitch seems to go by slowly, especially as I was now concerned that we would be delaying Greg and Neal. At least they had the gear for another bivouac if necessary. We had to go over the top that night. The upper pitches are remarkable in several ways: First, the quality of the cracks, allowing fast and secure placement of cams and stoppers (we used almost nothing else). Second, the steepness of the wall. Late in the day, a coil of our rope pulls a loose rock from a ledge just below my hanging belay. After yelling "Rock!!!", I watch anxiously, only to note that it never touches the wall - the first impact is in the dirt close to where we started up the fixed lines! Third, the scenery, which is breathtaking and inspiring. It is a great privilege to be on a wall that beautiful on such a perfect day. We are having a great time. The route can be climbed free, of course, which is impressive to contemplate. What this means to us mortals is that, in spite of the steepness, we can usually top-step our aiders by setting finger locks in the crack well above our pro. This makes for exciting and efficient climbing. Due to the quality of the placements, we can easily back-clean and reuse pieces. Although we brought 4 full sets of small cams, we rarely place over half the rack. Lynn had hiked up the trail to act as "Sherpani", and as I hang in the last belay, I'm anxious to get over the top and celebrate with her. Mark looks at the last pitch and decides to free it - at 5.10a it is nowhere near as committing as the 5.10c pitch 2. He makes fairly short work of the 5.10, but stalls a while on the unprotected 5.7 above. Finally, I hear the signal, and race the darkness on my Jumars. The route is in the bag, life is good, and the three of us hike happily down the trail in the gathering darkness to the sounds of the canyon, headed for yet another celebration dinner. Synopsis: The best primarily aid climb I've ever done; this route will prove very easy for an experienced aid climber, but should not be underestimated by a beginner. It would be an awesome free climb for the qualified. The individual moves do not appear so difficult - it is the length and continuity of the pitches that produce the 5.12 ratings. The rack (what we actually used; take more of everything if you don't want to conserve)
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