North American Classic Climbs

El Capitan

The Nose

Probably the most famous rock climb in the world, this was the first route up El Capitan, with a large cast of characters driven to the task by the indomitable Warren Harding. Climbed by the elite in a day, and by the uncommonly gifted without aid, this remains a big adventure for the average wall climber as a mixed free and aid climb in 3 to 5 days. Very popular among the international set, this route suffers badly from crowding and environmental apathy.

Type:

Lowland Rock (Big Wall)

Seriousness:

Location:

Yosemite Nat'l Park, California, USA

References:

G5, G28, I1, I2, I3, I5, W9, W22, W25, W32

Rating:

VI, 5.10A3 to 5.13

Route Descriptions & Maps:

First Ascent:

First Free Ascent:

W. Harding, W. Merry, G. Whitmore, 1958.
Lynn Hill, 1996

Trip Reports:

Bell & Shostek 9/96
Hamilton 2/69