North American Classic Climbs

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Mount Edith Cavell

North Face, Regular Route

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Description

Climbers*

Photo*

Date

26A10

26A10

The North Face of Mt. Edith Cavell, from Jasper. E. Ridge on left.

-

GC

8/22/98

22U17

22U17

The North Face after a late-summer storm, from the NE.

-

GC

9/4/94

22U18

22U18

The Angel Glacier and Iceberg Lake, at the base of the face, The route crosses the Angel Glacier from right to left in the basin above to reach the base of the upper face.

-

GC

9/4/94

26A04

26A04

The North Face from the parking lot. The standard approach starts on the crest of the moraine in the bottom of the photo.

-

GC

8/28/98

26A08

26A08

The approach to the Angel Glacier marked. Although moderate technically, few would call this trivial, and some have had very difficult times due to route-finding problems.

-

GC

8/28/98

GB01

GB01

Just starting the steep (5th class) section of the approach apron.

BW

GB

8/03

22U20

22U20

Scrambling up a chimney on the approach apron.

GC

LC

9/4/94

27N15

27N15

Looking down at Iceberg Lake from above the chimneys on the approach.

LC

GC

8/20/99

27N19

27N19

The Angel Glacier Cirque.

GC

LC

8/20/99

27O09

27O09

A good bivouac site on the terminal moraine.

GC

LC

8/20/99

27O07R

27O07R

The main face from the bivouac site, with the route marked.

-

GC

8/21/99

MA32

MA32

Just above the bergschrund at the foot of the low-angle face.

MA

MI

8/01

GB03

GB03

A traversing pitch takes you to the base of the steep section of the buttress.

BW

GB

8/03

GB04

GB04

Typical climbing low on the buttress.

BW

GB

8/03

GB05

GB05

Stemming a dihedral.

BW

GB

8/03

GB06

GB06

Steep rock on the buttress.

BW

GB

8/03

GB07

GB07

Passing a fixed piton.

BW

GB

8/03

MA20

MA20

On this climb in sub-optimum conditions, we see the second coming up to the first belay.

MA

MI

8/01

MA17

MA17

At the top of the third pitch, traversing right to gain the buttress on fun but cold face climbing.

MI

MA

8/01

MA12

MA12

Just above the technical rock, gaining the upper snowfields.

MI

MA

8/01

MA06

MA06

Leading up the "snow gullies" above the buttress.

MI

MA

8/01

MA01

MA01

Leading through the final rock band in deteriorating weather.

MI

MA

8/01

GB08

GB08

Looking down the upper snow slopes from a belay.

BW

GB

8/03

GB09

GB09

Leading out mid-way on the upper snow slopes.

BW

GB

8/03

GB10

GB10

Looking back at the summit from just below on the West Ridge.

-

GB

8/03

JC23

JC23

Looking down the final snow field from the summit.

-

JC

8/92

SS08

SS08

The North face in profile, from the west. Shows the true angle of the upper face.

-

SS

8/94

CB12

CB12

On the descent; in meadows after finishing the West Ridge. It is still a very long hike back to the car.

unknown

CB

8/94

*Climbers & Photographers: Gary Clark, Lynn Clark, Chris Brislawn, Joe Catellani, Steve Shostek, George Bell, Jr., Bill Wright, MA: Mark Anderson, MI: Michael Anderson