North American Classic Climbs

Eagle Dance

(Rainbow Mtn, Red Rocks)

One of two equally amazing routes on Red Rocks' Rainbow Buttress, this could be considered the lesser sibling of Levitation 29 in difficulty grade, but not in quality. Starting just to the left of that more famous route in a long crack system, it follows the most natural line up the remote 800ft+ south face of Rainbow Mountain. The route name comes from the outline of an Eagle on the wall (a little imagination is necessary.) The route goes through the head of the Eagle. Expect one of the longest and most difficult approaches at Red Rocks up a wild canyon system. Expect superb, steep climbing without a single "offending" easy section. Expect to have the route to yourself. If you go over the top to descend the North Fork of Oak Creek Canyon in its entirety (recommended, at least once), you will experience the best scenery that the Red Rock area backcountry has to offer. However, this makes for a long day, so you might consider phoning the rangers for a late exit permit. If you choose to rappel instead, you'll be praising the American Safe Climbing Assocation, who replaced all the bolts in 2002 to create a paradigm of anchor quality. If you haven't already sent them a donation, come climb this route and you won't be able to get home fast enough to mail in your check. This climb should be done in cool temperatures, as it is in full sun all day. It should come as no surprise that this route is yet another Urioste (Jorge and Joanne) creation.

Type:

Lowland Rock (crag)

Seriousness:

Location:

Red Rocks Conservation Area, (near Las Vegas), Nevada, USA

References:

G4, G40

Rating:

IV (with approach), 5.10-

Route Descriptions & Maps:

First Ascent:

J. & J. Urioste, March 1980

Trip Reports:

Clark 10/02