North American Classic Climbs
Devil's Tower
El Matador
|
North American Classic Climbs |
| |
|
| |
Devil's Tower El Matador |
Beta 
Images
Slide Show
|
|
Description |
Climbers* |
Photo* |
Date |
|
The west side of Devil's Tower. El Matador goes up the chimney that forms the longest shadow near the left side of the tower, then steps left to share a pitch with the McCarthy West Face route. Jam cracks through a roof are involved in the finish, for which there are several variations. |
- |
GD |
August, 2002 | ||
|
A closeup of the route in late afternoon light, emphasizing the amazing symmetry of columnar geology. |
- |
GD |
" | ||
|
The leader at the base of the route, which starts up the right side of the curving crack to reach more serious climbing on pitch 2, the obvious perfectly symmetric chimney formed by parallel columns directly above the climber. |
GD |
JM |
" | ||
|
Getting started on the lead of pitch 2. |
GD |
JM |
" | ||
|
Higher on pitch 2, in a difficult fingertip lieback. |
GD |
JM |
" | ||
|
Resorting to a wide stem facing out at the top of pitch 2. |
GD |
JM |
" | ||
|
Following pitch 2 in a very wide stem. You must be either tall or very flexible to pull this off, or the alternative is an even more difficult (5.11a) fingertip lieback. |
JM |
GD |
" | ||
|
Another view of the stem. Another leader is arriving at the anchors below at the pedestal atop of pitch 1. |
JM |
GD |
" | ||
|
High on pitch 2. |
JM |
GD |
" | ||
|
Nearing the top of the 130ft chimney, where another perfectly flat ledge awaits. |
JM |
GD |
" | ||
|
Jamming a thin crack on pitch 3, a short pitch that takes you to a ceiling. |
GD |
JM |
" | ||
|
Arriving at the top of pitch 3. |
JM |
GD |
" | ||
|
Leading the ceiling, pitch 4. |
GD |
JM |
" | ||
|
Looking down from the lead on pitch 4. |
JM |
GD |
" | ||
|
Arriving at the top of pitch 4. |
JM |
GD |
" | ||
|
A mantle finishes pitch 5, from which a short moderate pitch takes you to the summit. |
JM |
GD |
" |
*Climbers & Photographers: Guillaume Dargaud, Jennifer Mariani
