North American Classic Climbs
Bugaboo Spire
Northeast Ridge
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North American Classic Climbs |
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Bugaboo Spire Northeast Ridge |
Beta 
Images
Slide Show
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Description |
Climbers* |
Photo* |
Date |
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This view makes the long road to the Bugaboos worth it. The peaks from left to right are: Anniversary Pk., Hound's Tooth, Pigeon Spire, and Snowpatch Spire. |
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GC |
7/30/01 | ||
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The Applebee campground is the best alternative to the Kain Hut, and shortens the approach appreciably (30min-1hr) |
unknown |
GC |
8/01 | ||
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At Applebee on a dreary day. |
unknown |
GC |
8/17/97 | ||
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Under the East face of the spire on the Bugaboo Glacier. The route traverses the skyline from left to right. |
LC,MZ |
GC |
8/15/99 | ||
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The NE ridge from the col between Bugaboo and Crescent Spires. |
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GC |
7/12/75 | ||
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Looking to the West from the col. |
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GC |
" | ||
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Approaching the base of the climb |
LC, et al |
GC |
8/01 | ||
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Looking up at the ridge from near the rope-up spot. |
GC |
LC |
" | ||
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Starting to lead pitch 1 with a party ahead. |
GC, et al |
LC |
" | ||
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Pitch 2. |
GC |
LC |
" | ||
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Arriving at the belay, pitch 2 |
LC |
GC |
" | ||
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The belay stance for pitch 2. |
LC |
GC |
" | ||
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Leading pitch 3 |
DK |
GC |
7/12/75 | ||
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The leader traverses back over the head of the belayer on pitch 3. |
DK |
GC |
" | ||
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A classic dihedral (5.6) forms pitch 4 |
GC |
LC |
8/01 | ||
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This difficult crack is an alternative for pitch 5 |
unknown |
GC |
" | ||
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This is the usual pitch 5, an easier crack system that turns into a large chimney system. |
GC |
LC |
" | ||
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Looking down in the middle section |
unknown |
GC |
7/12/75 | ||
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More simul-climbing in the middle chimneys |
LC |
GC |
8/01 | ||
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A 5.7 pitch over a small roof poses the last technical climbing on the route |
unknown |
GC |
" | ||
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The first rappel. |
GC, et al |
LC |
" | ||
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Knife edges on the traverse after the summit. |
LC |
GC |
" | ||
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Another shot of the ridge traverse |
unknown |
GC |
" | ||
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Climbers on the traverse, just short of the South Summit. |
unknown |
GC |
7/12/75 | ||
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This very difficult step must be overcome if you want to visit both summits. Otherwise, you can rappel at this point to continue the descent. |
unknown |
GC |
" | ||
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Setting the rappel to bypass the famous gendarme that poses the crux on the Kain (South Ridge) route. |
unknown |
GC |
" | ||
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More of the descent. |
GC |
LC |
8/01 | ||
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The west ridge. |
- |
GC |
" |
*Climbers & Photographers: Gary Clark, Lynn Clark, David Kimes
