Dream Weaver, Mount Meeker, Colorado
June 4, 1999
Participants: Mike Sullivan and John Andriola
Dream Weaver is a classic cruiser alpine route. It is located on the
north face of Mount Meeker (13,911’), looking down on the Chasm Lake cirque
of Long’s Peak. The route follows the left margin of the Flying Buttress,
a narrow and steep granite arete that also features a number of quality
rock climbs. Depending on conditions, Dream Weaver will provide about 2000’
vertical of any mixture of WI2, AI2, M3, or wet 5.6 rock. The crux of the
route is a spectacular 3-foot wide slot (usually ice-filled) at a 60-degree
angle. The climb features some of the most amazing scenery in Rocky Mountain
National Park, and is a thoroughly transcendent experience.
John and I met at 2:30 AM in Boulder, and began our approach hike from
the Long’s Peak trailhead just after 4 AM. We reached the cirque in time
for some alpenglow views of Long’s east face, and made it up to the base
of the route at about 8 AM. Because of a very heavy May snowfall, the route
was in fat condition, but was definitely still more snow than ice. We soloed
our way up to a break in the Flying Buttress, where there is a tower and
deep cleft in the rock. The scenery was beyond description - you’ve gotta
see it for yourself!
The snow was giving way to ice at this point, and we soon roped up as
we approached the crux slot. The conditions were such that neither pickets
nor ice screws were secure, but the rock walls of the slot provided pretty
good placements for stoppers or small cams. After two pitches the slot
widened out to a broad snow ramp. We repacked the gear and cramponed up
the last few hundred feet to the summit, where we were rewarded with a
great panorama of the Indian Peaks, Front Range, Gore Range, and Never
Summer Mountains.
After the mandatory whoops, photographs, and snacks, we descended to
the saddle between Meeker and Long’s, and then down to the Loft, a prominent
wedge-shaped snowfield. We forgot the descent description, and missed the
proper traverse. (Oops…) Instead, we climbed down steep snow to a funnel
of slush and meltwater over slabs. A short rappel put us past these obstacles,
and we had a sensationally fast 1000’ glissade down to the snowfield below
the Flying Buttress.
By the time we finished our lunch the snow was getting pretty mushy,
and we postholed our way back down to the Chasm Lake trail. A little more
trudging brought us below treeline, and finally back to the trailhead at
about 2:30 PM. I pulled out a selection of food from the cooler in my pickup
and we had a tailgate feast in the parking lot, laughing and carrying on
about how beautiful the route was… Memories like this last a lifetime.
