A Few Great Cochise Stronghold Rock
Climbs, Arizona
Larry Earley (author) and Don Taylor
February 18 and 19, 2011
Out-of-Towners Dome, Cochise Stronghold East
Side (February 18, 2011)
I had always
wanted to visit the Out-of-Towners Dome in Cochise Stronghold east
side since Norbert Ensslin talked about a visit there in the 90s to
a climb called Arribas Amoebas 5.10. The hike in to the dome is
about an hour for most people but the young and strong could make it
in 35-40 minutes. The approach is about 700 vertical on a fair but
sometimes faint trail. Recent reports from Mountain Project mention
many new cairns which did help the way. Do not try any short cuts
which will be a mistake. Norbert mentioned nice granite face
climbing on low angle slabs. Bolted anchors and a 400 foot dome make
it feel like big climbs but the risks are low for backcountry
stronghold routes. Don and I tried a newer climb called
Left of El Cautivo 5.9 bolted three pitch climb. We saw about
ten bolted routes. The-Out-of-Towners 5.10 looked pretty stiff and
was beyond our ability. We also saw Arribas Amoebas which was good
but still a hard climb. El Cautivo 5.9 was moderate but a little
runout. We did the easiest line Left of El Cautivo which is
described in Mountain Project as the "clip-up" route. This route was
great and the first pitch was the best. If you blow the second clip
you could deck but its a clip-up. Pitch two is good at the start and
finish but fair in the middle. Pitch three has a few moves till you
get over a small roof. Then its runout 5.7 for a good while. Save
something for the finish. If you slip on the first runout 5.7
section its a long fall back over the roof. Strong parties could
easily climb 2-3 routes in a day. You rap back down to the start and
move a short distance to the next route. The harder routes are hard
right off the deck with first bolts 25 feet up there. You will need
two ropes to rap but there is a walk off from top if you wish. The
trail takes you right to the middle of the dome and you see five
routes just as you arrive.
Sweet Rock Sport Climbing, Cochise Stronghold
West Side (February 19, 2011)
Sweet Rock is a new sport climbing area on west side of Cochise
Stronghold very near to the Isle of You. The area is less than two
years old and has about 18 climbs. This is granite face climbing
with closely spaced bolts. The approach is 1 minute from the car.
The area is moderate with mostly 9s and 10s but a few 11s. The
routes face north. Free camping is minutes away. We started on a
nice 5.8 Whatchamacallit which is a great warm-up. Next we tried a
more difficult route Hot Tamale 10b. It is sustained 10a with a
couple crux moves. Then we did Jaw Breaker 10a. Mostly 5.9 but the
crux is pretty tough reach with balance. Peanut Brittle is high
quality 5.9 -10a with committing moves. We finished on Kit Kat 7+
which has a few moves. Give this place a try when in the Stronghold
and you have a couple hours to spare. You can walk off top or lower
from anchors. Overall its nice but this place may see some traffic.
We climbed on a cool day with lots of wind and there were many
others climbing.
