Author:
Larry Earley.
Participants:
Larry Earley and Don Taylor.
Mountain
Project Route Guide: click
here.
The Canal Zone is a new sport climbing
area only a mile from downtown Golden. The area is about two years
old and is part of Clear Creek Canyon. The area is not especially
scenic and the short approach hike is nothing special. The rock can
be seen from HWY 6 and it does not inspire you either. The area does
have a few good points. First it gets morning shade in summer when
its too hot to climb in the sun. Second the climbs are well bolted
and close together. This second point can also be bad since it can
feel like a crowded gym. Don and I also had trouble parking since
there is only room for 25 cars. The Canal Zone is popular and we
found a little less then 50 climbers on the 20 climbs. This place is
popular since it has a lot of easier climbs. Actually there is a
good variety of 5.8-11. The approach hike follows some old canal
which is interesting or maybe not. The damp dirt suggests this is
not a good place to go after a heavy rain. When we were there it was
almost dry.
Don and I started on the only free
climb called Levada 8+. It should have been a hint. This one is not
recommended. It is weird rock, slippery and makes one feel insecure
with lots of sloper holds. Don did not like this one. I lead it with
5 extra cams plus the bolts. Its 25 feet from the last bolt to the
anchors We were ready to call it a day when two old guys showed up.
They were nice and we talked. The one guy lead a hard ten but he
looked solid. The other older guy had trouble on the crux. The older
one was Jim Erickson who has about 100+ first ascents in CO mostly
Eldorado Canyon. The other guy was better. Mike Munger has many
alpine first ascents etc. Look up these guys. A young girl walked by
and said there are those two famous old guys. I told her Don and I
are just old guys. Later Munger lead the 5.11 roof in style on the
left most climb. It was pretty cool to see him do it. He used a one
arm pull-up while both feet swung. Don said it reminded him of the
Prow at Cochiti Mesa.
Don and I got on two great climbs
finally after waiting. Made in the Shade 9- was great and Beasto 10
was very cool. We thought Beasto was 10a/b. We looked at the other
climbs and there were some possible good ones. The Canal Zone is not
a destination area but if you are in Golden on a hot morning it will
be good enough.
