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Hueco Tanks Climbing Update
December 12-13, 2009

Author: Larry Earley

Participants: Larry Earley and Don Taylor

Slideshows (from others): Climbing Scenes, and Park Tour

Don and I went to Hueco Tanks for a two day climbing escape. Things have changed again at Hueco. The rangers are nice and friendly. There were two campground hosts who were retired and helpful. The place was very clean including restrooms and shower. The campground had about three other parties each night. We got a reservation only two days before for Saturday. You now get email confirmation for your reservation. Sunday was full. We managed to get a walk in reservation Sunday morning. Only ten people available for walk ins. The place was a ghost town all weekend. Don and I were the only roped climbers. I estimate there were about 20 bouldering people each day. Sunday had several hikers. Most of the bouldering people took tours from Hueco Rock Ranch for $20 a day and they went far into the east side mostly. The ranch now has single rooms for rent $40 a night and bunk beds in dorm style for $20 or less. The bouldering people are young. Not any road warriors but college kids. There were cars from PA, AZ, NM, CA, NV, Alberta, BC, Illinios, and Idaho.

We did the usual great sporty climbs. These have bolts but are not sport climbs. Runouts are mandatory. Don lead Divine Wind (5.7) and then we toproped pitch one of All the Nasties (9+). Both are still excellent. We climbed Alice in Banana Land (10a) which was hard for me due to cold rock and fear on sharp end. Don lead the first pitch of Uriahs Heap (7+) and I lead the second pitch. Pitch two is great, runout and just plain fun. We finished on Window Pain (10b/c). I managed to lead it in poor style with hanging on several bolts. It is 150 feet with 11 bolts. I got two cams in to help the fear. Window Pain is the best. Don did it without a rest.

The climbing trails at the base of all the North Mountain climbs are overgrown due to the lack of roped climbers. Also the chains on all the anchors are heavily rusted. It looked like hardly anyone this past year lowered off the chains. The rust was thick on all areas. No lines for Hueco great roped climbing.

This is a big change from 1998 when I climbed with Jan Studebaker. It was spring 1998 and there were almost 200 climbers in action. Jan got me started at Hueco and it is still a great climbing destination. This was probably my 15th trip to Hueco. It is cold in December but the daily high temperatures were 61 degrees. Lots of shade. We did several leads in shade and temperatures near 45 degrees.


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