Limestone Sport Climbing Area in Arizona
January 1, 2007
Anyone interested in sport
climbing limestone should seriously check out a new climbing area in
Arizona called The Homestead. If you like Jack’s Canyon or Palomas Peak
then you will love The Homestead. The only problem is that you will
never climb at Jack’s Canyon again. Well Jack’s has a better road but
that is about it. The Homestead has the BEST moderates, BEST 10s and the
BEST hardlines period. The Homestead is well bolted and has the BEST
wilderness experience possible. If you get bored you can go fossil
hunting because it has the BEST limestone fossils too. Free camping on
Arizona State Land. The only negative is the road. There is a 100 yard
long section of 4WD that is pretty bad. Then drive two miles on good
road to a good camping area.
View of Homestead
climbing area from approach on dirt road.
This area has been developed by several
Tucson and Pheonix climbers. I met three of them. Clean rock and nice
lines are on every route. There are now 100 routes. Not all of them are
in the guide. The canyon is simply the most fantastic place I have ever
seen. The approach hike through the canyon is worth the drive alone. The
climbing is simply the best limestone period. They have the best 8s that
are steep, clean and interesting. Then the same goes for the 9s, 10s
etc. The 12s look pretty good too. Check out complete information on web
View of Finland Wall.
I did six routes and each
one is three stars. Ratings are fair. Nothing loose. All routes are
interesting and different. There are several different limestone layers
so great variety. There are several 13s too so no one will get bored.
Its an eight hour drive from Los Alamos. If you only have 2WD then its
an extra two mile walk in to canyon. Go there and climb. No on will be
disappointed. Its only one hour longer drive than Jack’s Canyon. The
quality of limestone at The Homestead is only 100 times better than
Jack’s. It is a guarantee.
New 5.8 route on Slate