North American Classic Climbs

The Yellow Spur

(Eldorado Canyon)

Description

Climbers*

Photo*

Date

30A13

30A13

The West Face of Redgarden Wall. The route lies roughly on the left skyline of the tower in the foreground.

-

GC

07/22/01

30A14

30A14

Eldorado Canyon on a weekend. There are lots of climbers, and lots of tourists.

-

GC

"

30A15

30A15

Approaching the climb on the newly constructed trail.

LC

GC

"

30A16

30A16

Just off the ground, a few tricky moves are encountered.

RW

LC

"

30A17

30A17

Leading the crux of pitch 1, a small overhang.

RW

LC

"

30A18

30A18

Starting pitch 2.

GC

LC

"

30A19

30A19

Following pitch 2.

LC

GC

"

30A20

30A20

Pitch 3, a long straight-up dihedral & crack.

RW

LC

"

30B02

30B02

Pitch 4 traverses right on a broad ledge, then goes up an easy dihedral. The only out-of-character pitch on the climb.

RW

LC

"

30B03

30B03

Following the dihedral of pitch 4.

GC

LC

"

30B04

30B04

Leading up to the hand traverse, pitch 5.

GC

LC

"

30B05

30B05

The hand traverse.

GC

LC

"

30B06

30B06

Looking back on the belay at the top of pitch 4. All belays are at comfortable ledges.

LC, RW

GC

"

30B07

30B07

Leading the final dihedral of pitch 5, which ends on the famous "triangular ledge" right on the prow of the tower.

unknown

GC

"

30B08

30B08

Following pitch 5.

LC

GC

"

30B11

30B11

The view to the west (up canyon) from the airy stance at the triangular ledge.

-

GC

"

30B12

30B12

Starting the lead of pitch 6, the clear crux of the route at sustained 5.9.

RW

LC

"

30B13

30B13

At the end of the sustained finger crack, the leader has a choice of the original route, a 5.10 bolt ladder straight up, or the "Robbins Traverse", established on the first free ascent

RW

GC

"

30B14

30B14

Finishing the lead via the Robbins traverse.

RW

LC

"

30B15

30B15

Following the Robbins traverse. Very exposed climbing on small holds makes this an exciting passage.

GC

LC

"

30B16

30B16

The final pitch is easy but scenic, going directly up the knife-edged prow to the summit.

RW

LC

"

30B19

30B19

From the summit, this 'easier-than-it-looks' hand traverse leads down to a gully to begin the descent.

RW

LC

"

30B20

30B20

The initial gully of the descent to the east.

RW

GC

"

30C01

30C01

A recent bolted rappel line takes you back to the base of the climb, and replaces the old East Slabs descent route, which is long and roundabout. Finding the beginning of the rappels is rather inobvious.

LC

GC

"