North American Classic Climbs

The Titan

Finger of Fate

A climb with history and interesting and exciting aid climbing on rock that is not as bad quality as storied. Unless you're really fast on aid, consider spending the first day climbing 5-1/2 pitches, then rappel the big gully to the right of the route (also used for the descent.) This can be fixed with three ropes. Jumar the ropes and finish the next day in time to get off and back to town for a deserved beer. Although best in spring and fall, this route is possible in summer due to its northern exposure, but not recommended. The south side has the well-named "Sun Devil Chimney" to give you an idea of the problem. In April of 2004, a team of volunteers from Rock and Ice Magazine, the American Safe Climbing Association, and gear manufacturer Petzl pulled the notoriously bad bolts on this climb, and created solid, modern anchors and safe aid bolts. The total bolt count was reduced, in order to retain the challenge similar to that faced by the first ascent party. Be prepared for some creative aid climbing on this route, but you no longer have to worry about anchor bolts falling out in your hand.

Type:

Lowland Rock (big wall)

Seriousness:

Location:

Near Moab, Utah, USA

References:

G7,I1, I2, I4, I5

Rating:

IV, 5.8, A3

Route Descriptions & Maps:

First Ascent:

L. Kor, G. Hurley, H. Ingalls, May 12-13, 1962

Trip Reports:

Bell & Wright 94
Peterson 7/95