North American Classic Climbs
Pigeon Spire
West Ridge
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North American Classic Climbs |
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Pigeon Spire West Ridge |
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Images
Slide Show
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Description |
Climbers* |
Photo* |
Date |
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Pigeon Spire (on the left) from the summit of Bugaboo Spire. The West Ridge is the right skyline of the spire. |
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GC |
08/08/01 | ||
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On the glacier approach from the Snowpatch-Bugaboo Col. |
LC |
GC |
08/09/01 | ||
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Near the end of the approach, which is usually at least two hours from the hut. The route starts at the little notch. |
LC |
GC |
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Having breakfast at the notch before beginning the climb. |
LC |
GC |
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On the initial slabs. |
GC |
LC |
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Reaching the true ridge, via excellent cracks. |
GC |
LC |
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There are several narrow ridges on the route; this is the first. |
LC |
GC |
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3rd and 4th-class scrambling typifies the ridge to the first false summit. |
GC |
LC |
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The view from the first false summit. |
unknown |
GC |
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Looking back toward the west, across the deep cleft that gives the route such personality. |
LC |
GC |
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Approaching the second false summit. The true summit is now visible behind and to the right. |
GC |
LC |
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After a short traverse around the summit tower, you can see the crux slab pitch above. |
unknown |
LC |
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Climbing the crux slab pitch. A good crack makes it initially easy, but it disappears, turning it into an exercise in "faith in your shoes." This was climbed with no protection on the first ascent, using the boots available at the time (1930.) |
GC |
LC |
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Finishing the crux pitch. |
GC |
LC |
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A party reaching the summit, which is barely big enough for two. |
unknown |
GC |
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On the descent, the views of the Howser Towers are incredible. The South Howser Tower is on the left, but this is the shorter NE side; the classic route is diametrically opposed. |
GC |
LC |
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Descending. |
LC |
GC |
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Returning towards the Snowpatch-Bugaboo col. |
GC |
LC | " | ||
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Looking back up at the col, the descent from which can present the crux of this adventure. |
LC |
GC |
08/08/01 |
*Climbers & Photographers: Gary Clark, Lynn Clark
