North American Classic Climbs

Keeler Needle

Harding Route

Offering clean white granite climbing in the high country of California's Sierra Nevada Range, this climb is typically characterized as "One of the best climbs I've ever done" by climbers who have experienced it. The "Needle" is part of the Mt. Whitney escarpment and only appears to be a separate feature from below. The climb is characterized by continuous 5.7 to 5.9 pitches, punctuated by two 5.10 pitches, all at considerable altitude. The first ascent was one of the first to bring big wall techniques to the high country. The history of development includes some of the most notable climbers of their generations. The climb can be done in a day by a fast party, but you'll want a high camp because of the considerable approach. A good bivouac ledge is available for more leisurely ascents. The most likely descent is via Whitney's Mountaineer's route (3rd class) on the NE side to get back to your camp. Access to this very popular area (because of Mt. Whitney) is tightly controlled - you must contact the Forest Service in Lone Pine for permits.

Type:

Alpine Rock

Seriousness:

Location:

Kings Canyon Nat'l Park, California, USA

References:

G11, W8

Rating:

V, 5.9 A3 to 5.10+

Route Descriptions & Maps:

First Ascent:

First Free Ascent:

W. Harding, G. Denny, R. McKnight, F. Gronberg, July 1960.
G. Rowell, C. Vandiver, G. Wiltsie

Trip Reports:

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