North American Classic Climbs

Hallett Peak

Culp-Bossier Route

Description

Climbers*

Photo*

Date

30Z14

30Z14

The parking lot at 6:00am on a Saturday, with Hallett Peak in the background. This lot will be full by midday.

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GC

6/8/02

30Z15

30Z15

The first mile of the trail is paved and scenic.

RW

GC

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d02_002

d02_002

Hallett's North Face in profile from a small lake on the approach.

GC

RW

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30Z17

30Z17

The final bit of approach on an ad-hoc climbers' trail. The 2nd buttress, on which the Culp-Bossier route lies, is prominent in this photo. The route goes more or less up the prow in the center of the photo.

RW

GC

"

30Z18

30Z18

Casual belaying of the leader on the first pitch from across the snow field. The first bit is up the fairly blank white wall. Then protection is gained in the dihedral (the leader is just visible in the shadows)

unknown

GC

"

d02_003

d02_003

Leading pitch 1, with another party up and right at the base of the 5.7 finger crack.

GC

RW

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30Z19

30Z19

On the face just above the grassy ledge on pitch 1. This party belayed here, but the normal way is for the leader to continue on up here before stopping. (see route diagram)

unknown

GC

"

30Z20

30Z20

Arriving at the wide grassy ledge from the initial dihedral, pitch 1.

RW

GC

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31A01

31A01

Leading steep but moderate cracks, pitch 2.

RW

GC

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d02_004

d02_004

Pitch 3. The leader is preparing to leave the dihedral and strike out to the right, where the crux waits.

RW

GC

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31A02

31A02

Looking down at the major dihedral of pitch 2.

RW

GC

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31A03

31A03

The second at the crux section, a short exposed slab topped by a small roof.

RW

GC

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31A04

31A04

Looking back at a party at the belay ledges, pitch 3. These ledges extend to the left for a considerable distance, and are shared with the Hesse-Ferguson route.

unknown

GC

"

d02_005

d02_005

Looking up pitch 4 on the amazing sweep of rock left of the prow. At first this pitch is well-protected 5.6, but careful route finding is necessary above to keep the difficulty in check, as there is little protection.

unknown

RW

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31A06

31A06

The second arriving at belay 4.

RW

GC

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d02_006

d02_006

Looking down at the stance for pitch 4.

GC

RW

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d02_007

d02_007

Following pitch 5.

GC

RW

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d02_008

d02_008

Leading pitch 6.

GC

RW

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31A08

31A08

The upper part of pitch 6 is a quality crack with perfect protection and interesting steep climbing on great holds.

RW

GC

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31A09

31A09

Leading the last pitch. The leader chose to go straight up the corner on this, which provides a stimulating and strenuous 5.8+ wide crack problem. Easier cracks are out to the right a bit.

RW

GC

"

31A10

31A10

The top of the route, which ends suddenly on the East Ridge. You can scramble up this ridge to the summit, but most parties descend from here.

RW

GC

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d02_009

d02_009

The first rappel, from a modern double-bolt anchor. Another short rappel is below.

GC

RW

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31A11

31A11

Looking back at the approach hike from the top of the route.

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GC

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