North American Classic Climbs

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Devil's Tower

El Matador

Beta Images Slide Show

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Description

Climbers*

Photo*

Date

GD01

GD01

The west side of Devil's Tower. El Matador goes up the chimney that forms the longest shadow near the left side of the tower, then steps left to share a pitch with the McCarthy West Face route. Jam cracks through a roof are involved in the finish, for which there are several variations.

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GD

August, 2002

GD02

GD02

A closeup of the route in late afternoon light, emphasizing the amazing symmetry of columnar geology.

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GD

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GD03

GD03

The leader at the base of the route, which starts up the right side of the curving crack to reach more serious climbing on pitch 2, the obvious perfectly symmetric chimney formed by parallel columns directly above the climber.

GD

JM

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GD04

GD04

Getting started on the lead of pitch 2.

GD

JM

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GD05

GD05

Higher on pitch 2, in a difficult fingertip lieback.

GD

JM

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GD06

GD06

Resorting to a wide stem facing out at the top of pitch 2.

GD

JM

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GD09

GD09

Following pitch 2 in a very wide stem. You must be either tall or very flexible to pull this off, or the alternative is an even more difficult (5.11a) fingertip lieback.

JM

GD

"

GD10

GD10

Another view of the stem. Another leader is arriving at the anchors below at the pedestal atop of pitch 1.

JM

GD

"

GD11

GD11

High on pitch 2.

JM

GD

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GD08

GD08

Nearing the top of the 130ft chimney, where another perfectly flat ledge awaits.

JM

GD

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GD07

GD07

Jamming a thin crack on pitch 3, a short pitch that takes you to a ceiling.

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JM

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GD12

GD12

Arriving at the top of pitch 3.

JM

GD

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GD13

GD13

Leading the ceiling, pitch 4.

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JM

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GD15

GD15

Looking down from the lead on pitch 4.

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GD

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GD16

GD16

Arriving at the top of pitch 4.

JM

GD

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GD17

GD17

A mantle finishes pitch 5, from which a short moderate pitch takes you to the summit.

JM

GD

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*Climbers & Photographers: Guillaume Dargaud, Jennifer Mariani