North American Classic Climbs

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Castleton Tower

Kor/Ingalls Route

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This is one of the most popular routes in the American Southwest due to its striking appearance, the belief that this is the easiest route to the summit, and the fact that it is on Roper and Steck's list. The route is not a good choice for a beginning climber, but if you have some experience, it is well worth doing as an introduction to desert sanstone tower climbing before considering longer, more serious routes in the area. A key to enjoying this route is to choose the correct 4th pitch - don't get sucked up the big off-width crack directly above the belay stance - the best way is to climb up into the big chimney to the right to gain a very fine moderate face.


Type:

Lowland Rock (crag)

 

Seriousness:

Location:

Near Moab, Utah, USA

 

References:

G7, G39, I1, I2, I4, I5

Rating:

III, 5.9+

 

Route Descriptions & Maps:

Route diagram USGS topographic map

First Ascent:

L. Kor, H. Ingalls, September 15-16, 1961

 

Trip Reports:

Teissier 3/02
Clark 4/01
Staples 1/01
Opland 9/94