North American Classic Climbs

Mount Assiniboine

North Ridge

There are two great peaks in the Canadian Rockies that, once seen, are never forgotten: Mt. Robson and Mt. Assiniboine. Appearing in just about everyone's list of the great peaks of the world, Assiniboine presents a pyramidal shape with sharp ridges and great faces that immediately brings to mind the Swiss Matterhorn. The North Ridge is the most popular route, and is probably the safest and most aesthetic. This was the route of the first descent of the mountain by a guided party. After completing the first successful summit bid, the British client James Outram convinced his Swiss guides to descend the North Ridge, later to become the preferred standard route on the mountain. Some climbs make it into this collection because of classic nature of the climbing. The climbing on this route, although very good, is not exceptional compared to many other Canadian peaks, and will not challenge the modern technical climber with its difficulty. It's the classic shape and exquisite setting that makes this mountain a "must-do" for mountaineers.

Type:

Alpine Mixed

Seriousness:

Location:

Assiniboine Provincial Park, British Columbia

References:

G15, G42, I1, I2, I9, W14

Rating:

IV, 5.5, mixed

Route Descriptions & Maps:

First Ascent:

W. Douglas, C. Hasler, C. Kaufman, July 1903.

Trip Reports:

Bindner, 8/03
Clark, 8/01