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The Big Enchilada
Note:
Route descriptions complements of Jason Chen and Walt Wehner.
Crag Description:
The Big Enchilada is a 60 foot, southwest facing, basalt cliff with numerous traditional and toprope routes. Routes are somewhat chossy
and many are infrequently climbed. The Big Enchilada also features 2
bolted sport routes. However, many good routes can be found, while
avoiding the crowds. Many trad leaders practice here. This
cliff is in a good location and is fairly tall, but the rock is fairly
broken.
Bolting is
permitted here, but is discouraged, due to the lack of good
sport climbing potential.
Getting There:
To get to the Big Enchilada from NM
state road 4, turn southeast on Monterey South. Follow this for .7
miles until you come to Potrillo road. Turn right on Potrillo and
continue for .8 miles until you come to Estante road. Take another
right and follow the road back until you come to a pullout on the right
side of the road (.3 miles), just past a fire hydrant (this hydrant is on
the right side of the road as you approach, don't be fooled by an earlier
hydrant on the left). Park here. Follow the obvious trail
south until it splits, and follow the left branch. Follow this trail
to its end (a cliff edge). You have arrived! The hike is about
0.75 miles. Top rope sets are available to the right and left of the
trail end. Watch for loose rocks on the
climbs; particularly near the top. The descent gully is
slightly left of the trail end. As you come down the gully, two
bolted climbs will be on your left, and the main Big Enchilada area is
around the corner to the right.
Note: Be very careful to keep adequate distance
from the FIRE HYDRANT, mail boxes, driveways, and the edge of the road, when
parking. You must keep your tires off the road when you park. If you
don't obey these rules, you may get a ticket. The local property owners
demand legal enforcement. We are developing a bad reputation with them,
which could haunt us for years to come.
Crag location map.
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Photos with the routes delineated (suitable
for enhancing this guide) are requested. Please contact
Jan Studebaker to volunteer. |
The Big Enchilada South Side (routes: listed from
left to right)
(QUALITY, ROUTE, NAME, GRADE, ROUTE, DESCRIPTION)
* 1. ? 5.8 no bolts, anchor with gear Up the offwidth/chimney next to
route #2.
** 2. Boba Fett 5.12a no bolts, anchor with gear Scramble up bushy
boulders for 15 feet, then up the 45 foot, steep face, without using the
aretes. About 30 yards left of #3.
** 3. ? 5.9 no bolts, anchor with gear The large crack system at the far
left end of the crag. Begin by climbing to a ledge, then up the painfull
crack and to the top.
* 4. HuiHui's Revenge 5.12a no bolts, anchor with gear Up the narrow face
between routes 3 and 5, without using either crack. A bit contrived, but
fun. May be significantly harder for short people
***5. ? 5.10b/c no bolts, anchor with gear Same start as for #4, but work
right off of the ledge and up.
? 6. ? ? no bolts, anchor with gear 15 feet right of #5, this climb goes
about 30 feet to a small tree.
? 7. ? ? no bolts, anchor with gear The left side of the large, low roof.
To the tree as for #6.
** 8. ? 5.10b no bolts, anchor with gear Climb the thin cracks to the
right side of the large roof. Climb through a slot and step left into a
handcrack
** 9. ? 5.10d no bolts, anchor with gear Climb thin, awkward moves to
easier cracks above.
***10. ? 5.11a/b no bolts, anchor with gear 10 feet left of #11. Go up
the obvious layback and climb blocky cracks.
***11. ? 5.11b/c no bolts, anchor with gear Up weird crack/face moves in
an overhung dihedral, then up the slabby
face above. *** 12. ? 5.11c no bolts, anchor with gear Up the crack just
left of #13
** 13. ? 5.11c/d no bolts, anchor with gear Left of #14.
***14. ? 5.11b no bolts, anchor with gear Easy moves up jugs lead to a
crux reach in the dihedral. High quality, though somewhat loose. Needs
traffic!
** 15. ? 5.9+ no bolts, anchor with gear Right of #14. Climb a loose face
to a nice handcrack.
** 16. ? 5.10c no bolts, anchor with gear Up the bouldery start into a
clean dihedral.
***17. ? 5.9+ no bolts, anchor with gear 10 feet right of #16. Climb
straight up the broken crack system.
** 18. ? 5.12a no bolts, anchor with gear Climb either of 2 steep starts
to a loose ledge, then straight up the blank face, working rightwards so
as to avoid the crack. Contrived
* 19. ? 5.9 no bolts, anchor with gear Up the loose dihedral and out the
right side of the roof via an offwidth.
** 20. ? 5.9 no bolts, anchor with gear 10 feet right of #19. Up the
obvious wide slot, to the same finish.
** 21. ? 5.10d no bolts, anchor with gear 10 feet right of #20. Up and
leftwards, then straight up, paralleling #17.
** 22. ? 5.11a no bolts, anchor with gear Up a broken dihedral, pull a
small roof and layback up to another slightly overhung crux.
* 23. ? 5.9+ no bolts, anchor with gear 10 feet right of #22. Up a
dihedral to a ledge, then climb the headwall above.
The Big Enchilada East Side (routes: listed from
left to right)
(QUALITY, ROUTE, NAME, GRADE, ROUTE, DESCRIPTION)
** 1. ? 5.9+/10a no bolts, anchor with gear Up the lefthand crack out the
roof.
** 2. ? 5.12b 3 bolts, 2-bolt anchor Requires gear. The left sport route,
much harder than it looks. Don't grab the cracks!
***3. ? 5.9 no bolts, anchor with gear Hard to miss, a rare White Rock
chimney route. Quite an experience!
***4. ? 5.11c 2 bolts, 2-bolt anchor Up the crack, then clip 2 bolts on
the way to a chain anchor. Quite good.
** 5. ? 5.10b/c no bolts, anchor with gear Climb the obvious handcrack 5
feet right of #4. A little loose.
** 6. ? 5.10d/11a no bolts, anchor with gear Climb the crack to the right
of #5, then up a large flake and straight to the top.
* 7. ? 5.11b no bolts, anchor with gear Climb the splitter handcrack/corner,
then up the face/seam off the ledge.
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